|
Home > Archive > Building and Construction > August 2006 > Framing Recessed Electrical Panel
You are viewing an archived Text-only version of the thread.
To view this thread in it's original format and/or if you want to reply to
this thread please [click here]
| Author |
Framing Recessed Electrical Panel
|
|
| E. Hill 2006-08-23, 8:25 pm |
| Hello,
I'm moving our electrical meter/panel, and burying the service.
The new combo-box is semi-flush. UG conduit will be in the stud cavity.
Slab foundation. 16" OC studs. Exterior is stucco. Interior is open. (Wall
is an exterior garage wall.)
I'm going to cut a hole in the stucco, and mount the panel to the studs. The
bottom plate in that stud space will be removed, and the foundation
cut-away.
Since there is no longer a bottom plate, do I need to add additional
framing? For example, if this were a door, I'd obviously put king studs, a
header, and cripples. But, is the same thing done in this situation?
Thanks.
Eric
| |
|
| No.
"E. Hill" <anybody@anywhere.com> wrote in message
news:oYmdnUwCzbpaRnHZnZ2dnUVZ_o6dnZ2d@adelphia.com
> Hello,
>
> I'm moving our electrical meter/panel, and burying the
> service.
>
> The new combo-box is semi-flush. UG conduit will be in
> the stud cavity.
>
> Slab foundation. 16" OC studs. Exterior is stucco.
> Interior is open. (Wall is an exterior garage wall.)
>
> I'm going to cut a hole in the stucco, and mount the
> panel to the studs. The bottom plate in that stud space
> will be removed, and the foundation cut-away.
>
> Since there is no longer a bottom plate, do I need to add
> additional framing? For example, if this were a door, I'd
> obviously put king studs, a header, and cripples. But, is
> the same thing done in this situation?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Eric
| |
|
| If the bottom of the cavity is open to the floor cavity, yes you need to
fireblock the cavity. If it's open to the garage, yes. If the cavity is
sealed, probably OK to leave it out (difficult to tell by your description.)
"E. Hill" <anybody@anywhere.com> wrote in message
news:oYmdnUwCzbpaRnHZnZ2dnUVZ_o6dnZ2d@adelphia.com...
> Hello,
>
> I'm moving our electrical meter/panel, and burying the service.
>
> The new combo-box is semi-flush. UG conduit will be in the stud cavity.
>
> Slab foundation. 16" OC studs. Exterior is stucco. Interior is open. (Wall
> is an exterior garage wall.)
>
> I'm going to cut a hole in the stucco, and mount the panel to the studs.
> The bottom plate in that stud space will be removed, and the foundation
> cut-away.
>
> Since there is no longer a bottom plate, do I need to add additional
> framing? For example, if this were a door, I'd obviously put king studs, a
> header, and cripples. But, is the same thing done in this situation?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Eric
>
| |
|
|
| E. Hill 2006-08-23, 8:25 pm |
| > If the bottom of the cavity is open to the floor cavity, yes you need to
> fireblock the cavity. If it's open to the garage, yes. If the cavity is
> sealed, probably OK to leave it out (difficult to tell by your
> description.)
http://www.capitationservices.com/I..._with_notes.jpg
That should help.
The question (worded differently)...
Because the bottom plate is being removed between studs 3 and 4... Do I need
king studs to the left of 3, and the right of 4? Do 3 and 4 become trimmer
studs with a header above the combo panel?
Thanks.
Eric
| |
| LightsAREon 2006-08-25, 3:25 am |
| E. Hill wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I'm moving our electrical meter/panel, and burying the service.
>
> The new combo-box is semi-flush. UG conduit will be in the stud cavity.
>
> Slab foundation. 16" OC studs. Exterior is stucco. Interior is open. (Wall
> is an exterior garage wall.)
>
> I'm going to cut a hole in the stucco, and mount the panel to the studs. The
> bottom plate in that stud space will be removed, and the foundation
> cut-away.
>
> Since there is no longer a bottom plate, do I need to add additional
> framing? For example, if this were a door, I'd obviously put king studs, a
> header, and cripples. But, is the same thing done in this situation?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Eric
>
>
Eric
No. You don't need to fill in the bottom except to keep the bugs out.
the reason for the everything around the door is to distribute the
weight down to the foundation. From your description, you're already at
the foundation. Some fire blocking wound be prudent.
Another option is to call the electric company and ask to talk to the
field engineer. If you're nice to them, you might be able to get them
to come to your house and walk you through exactly what you need to do.
You don't wanna get this wrong. If you screw it up and the electric
company has to inspect or change your meter and the wall isn't right,
they have the ability to fine you.
| |
| E. Hill 2006-08-25, 3:25 am |
| > No. You don't need to fill in the bottom except to keep the bugs out. the
> reason for the everything around the door is to distribute the weight down
> to the foundation. From your description, you're already at the
> foundation. Some fire blocking wound be prudent.
Ok, that's what I've gathered. Thanks for confirming.
Here's a photo, if you're interested:
http://www.capitationservices.com/I..._with_notes.jpg
> Another option is to call the electric company and ask to talk to the
> field engineer. If you're nice to them, you might be able to get them to
> come to your house and walk you through exactly what you need to do. You
> don't wanna get this wrong. If you screw it up and the electric company
> has to inspect or change your meter and the wall isn't right, they have
> the ability to fine you.
My Edison inspector has been out multiple times during this process. (70'
trench that is 6' at one point because of a grade change.) She's great, and
would probably come out, but I don't want to bother her unless I really need
to.
fwiw... Her main concerns are (a) that the conduit is at depth, and (b) that
the bends are minimized for her crew.
Eric
|
|
|
|
|