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Home > Archive > Building and Construction > February 2007 > Base (plinth) for rotted post?
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Base (plinth) for rotted post?
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| Rima Neas 2007-02-10, 8:25 pm |
| I have to fix up six posts holding up a roof overhang, the bottom few inches
are rotted. They look like an I-Beam with a 4x6 core and 2x6 sides and are
rotted at the bottom. The top goes into a beam pocket which I prefer not to
mess with. The posts sit on an elevated wood deck that I am re-building--so
assume the new substrate is 2 layers of ply, which I will then add cement
board, water-proof membrane, and tile to.
My idea was to saw off the bottom 4 inches and build a little square plinth
underneath. But what to use?
One idea is to simply cast in place with concrete, then get the waterproof
membrane a couple of inches or so up the concrete sides before tiling.
Anyone used this method before? Any problems to anticipate?
Another idea is to put an undersize block of wood under the post, then seal
the sides and smooth to match with Bondo, WoodEpox or some such. I have
never tried this before either?
I would most appreciate your thoughts and experience on this.
Cheers, Shawn
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| Michael Bulatovich 2007-02-10, 8:25 pm |
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"Rima Neas" <RimaNeas@Yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:CEszh.8891$O02.1457@newssvr11.news.prodigy.net...
>I have to fix up six posts holding up a roof overhang, the bottom few
>inches are rotted. They look like an I-Beam with a 4x6 core and 2x6 sides
>and are rotted at the bottom. The top goes into a beam pocket which I
>prefer not to mess with. The posts sit on an elevated wood deck that I am
>re-building--so assume the new substrate is 2 layers of ply, which I will
>then add cement board, water-proof membrane, and tile to.
>
> My idea was to saw off the bottom 4 inches and build a little square
> plinth underneath. But what to use?
>
> One idea is to simply cast in place with concrete, then get the waterproof
> membrane a couple of inches or so up the concrete sides before tiling.
> Anyone used this method before? Any problems to anticipate?
>
> Another idea is to put an undersize block of wood under the post, then
> seal the sides and smooth to match with Bondo, WoodEpox or some such. I
> have never tried this before either?
>
> I would most appreciate your thoughts and experience on this.
>
> Cheers, Shawn
How old was it?
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| Rima Neas 2007-02-10, 8:25 pm |
| "Michael Bulatovich" <Please@dont.try> wrote in message
news:eqlrvs017nr@news4.newsguy.com...
>
> How old was it?
>
40 Yrs, give or take. Deck framing was straight DougFir and the posts sat
on the main beam.
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| Michael Bulatovich 2007-02-10, 8:25 pm |
|
"Rima Neas" <RimaNeas@Yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:Pyuzh.26031$yC5.19898@newssvr27.news.prodigy.net...
> "Michael Bulatovich" <Please@dont.try> wrote in message
> news:eqlrvs017nr@news4.newsguy.com...
> 40 Yrs, give or take. Deck framing was straight DougFir and the posts sat
> on the main beam.
That's a career in a wet place. You can shorten the post with a block at the
bottom if it's all fastened together. A piece with the grain running
horizontally will not suck up as much water at the beam top, but the
shrinkage across the grain can be appreciable. If the whole thing is clad,
do yourself a favor and use something to stop the water from wicking up the
post. (gasket/treatment)
--
MichaelB
www.michaelbulatovich.ca
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| Rima Neas 2007-02-11, 3:25 am |
| "Michael Bulatovich" <Please@dont.try> wrote in message
news:eqlt2a019a5@news4.newsguy.com...
>
> That's a career in a wet place. You can shorten the post with a block at
> the bottom if it's all fastened together. A piece with the grain running
> horizontally will not suck up as much water at the beam top, but the
> shrinkage across the grain can be appreciable. If the whole thing is clad,
> do yourself a favor and use something to stop the water from wicking up
> the post. (gasket/treatment)
> --
>
>
> MichaelB
> www.michaelbulatovich.ca
>
Now I am thinking maybe I should use an undersized block to take the weight
of the post, but build a melamine form around the area (only about 4in high)
and fill it the entire footprint with fiberglass resin. That should keep
the endgrain from soaking up any more water.... unless there is an easier
way for this?
The whole deck will get two layers of ply, cement board, waterproof
membrane, and then tiles. But the underside of the ply (Sturdifloor T&G)
will be open to the elements. I won't be able to paint before installation,
but should I paint the underside before installation to guard against
insects and moisture absorption?
Thanks, Shawn
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| Bob Morrison 2007-02-12, 1:26 pm |
| In a previous post Rima Neas wrote...
> Another idea is to put an undersize block of wood under the post, then seal
> the sides and smooth to match with Bondo, WoodEpox or some such. I have
> never tried this before either?
>
>
Use a piece of HDPE cut to the same size as the post. It will never rot
and you can use wood working tools to get it to the right size.
--
Bob Morrison, PE, SE
R L Morrison Engineering Co
Structural & Civil Engineering
Poulsbo WA
bob at rlmorrisonengr dot com
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