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Author Re: How Long to Tape / Mud / Sand Drywall ?
RicodJour

2007-03-24, 9:25 am

Listen, Roger, what exactly do you think you're accomplishing here?
Are ya "winning"?

You're giving some sketchy advice, based on your prejudices, which are
in turn based on faulty information. Do me a favor, show this thread
to your father - he's still working with you, right? - and see if
you're making him proud.

Concrete gets harder and stronger as the decades pass and the curing
does continue, but concrete does not have an unlimited amount of
moisture to give off. Cement undergoes a chemical reaction, binds the
water it needs, and releases the excess. The excess water does not
stick around for 100 years slowly releasing it. There is not enough
moisture released after the first couple or three months to
appreciably affect a basement's moisture level. If there is a
basement moisture problem, the water is coming from a source other
than the concrete foundation walls. If there is a basement moisture
problem, you deal with it before finishing off the basement.
Suggesting a dehumidifier is similar suggesting using an IV to add
blood to compensate for the bleeding. Might work in the short term,
bad idea in the long term.

The fact that you hired a plasterer that used nails at all on a metal
stud job, and wrote about it as an acceptable method, calls your
knowledge into question, on both technical and hiring grounds.

My vernacular in referring to taping and spackling, is partially a
regional thing - that's how it was referred to when I started in
construction, and partially an idiomatic thing - like bandaid. I'm
sure while you're standing there bleeding on the floor, you yell out,
"Someone get me a self-adhesive bandage!"

In any event, this thread is about the OP's needs. Your comment that
only cheap homeowners use drywall is insulting to him and off-base for
the reasons I've already mentioned. Your suggestion to go with
plaster veneer would cost more - depending on the area, maybe 30 to 50
percent more - and it can't be put on the existing drywall anyway.
You answered the question, "Do I really need to put premium gas in my
Honda?" with "Honda's suck. You should sell it and get a Lexus."
Excellent advice. I'm sure the OP appreciates it.

BTW, you may want to correct your web site about your design
capabilities - it's misleading.
"Plans pass town hall approval for permit in most states"
In most states a licensed architect or engineer - licensed in that
state - must sign off on the plans. You know that - say that. You
shouldn't offer things you can't provide.

Here's an example of one site's wording:
"Do some building departments require engineer {or architect} sealed
building plans to obtain a building permit? Yes. This means that a
licensed engineer {or architect} for your state has to review {insert
company name here}'s building plans to assure that they comply with
your state's building requirements. Once the engineer {or architect}
reviews the plans and no changes are needed, he or she applies his
engineering {or architect's} stamp and his signature to the plans.
This means he takes responsibility for the design not the building
department. If there are needed changes, the engineer {or architect}
usually faxes {insert company name here} notes and sketches that we
need to incorporate or change in the plans."

See? That's not misleading at all.

R

PS I took the liberty of crossposting this to a couple of related
newsgroups. For those other groups, the full thread can be found
here: http://tinyurl.com/yumsg3

3D Peruna

2007-03-31, 1:25 pm

3D Peruna wrote:
> Michael Bulatovich wrote:
>
> I've been injured due to laughing so hard at some of the stuff he's
> written up. The Gallery of Regrettable Food is a riot.


A small sampling:

Image: These Outdoor Meals Almost Serve Themelves!

"But we’d all run screaming for the safety of indoors if they did,
wouldn’t we? Mom! The double-Karo’d outdoor pancakes have attained
sentience, and are shoving themselve down people's throats! Make them stop!"

LinkBot





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