Building and Construction - Best gusset material for post & beam construction

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Best gusset material for post & beam construction

Ted $not really ted$ Perkins

2007-05-20, 1:25 pm

I'm building a covered deck off my upstairs bedroom. The design will use 4x6
posts and a 4x10 beam for the base support and 4x4 posts and a 4X8 beam for
the roof. According to the carpenter, I need gussets to tie the posts to the
beams. Since the gussets will show, I'd like the to be as decorative as
possible. Two questions:

What is the best metal to use for gussets (something non-corrosive, with
adequate flexibility but high yield strength)?

Can you recommend any companies that sell decorative metal works made from
this material?

Tim Robinson

marson

2007-05-20, 1:25 pm

On May 20, 12:07 pm, "Ted $not really ted$ Perkins"
<tperk...@hotmail.com.nospam> wrote:
> I'm building a covered deck off my upstairs bedroom. The design will use 4x6
> posts and a 4x10 beam for the base support and 4x4 posts and a 4X8 beam for
> the roof. According to the carpenter, I need gussets to tie the posts to the
> beams. Since the gussets will show, I'd like the to be as decorative as
> possible. Two questions:
>
> What is the best metal to use for gussets (something non-corrosive, with
> adequate flexibility but high yield strength)?
>
> Can you recommend any companies that sell decorative metal works made from
> this material?
>
> Tim Robinson

I would use steel connectors from simpson strong tie (http://
www.strongtie.com/) and figure out a way to disguise them.
Alternatively, you could have a metal fabrication shop make some for
you which could be somewhat decorative. Haven't seen decorative ones
you can buy off of the shelf. It may be too late now, but seems like
this issue could have been addressed during the design of the
project. For example, if you increased your post size to 6x6, you
could let in the header which generally looks better. Good luck.

Matt Whiting

2007-05-20, 8:25 pm

Ted (not really ted) Perkins wrote:
> I'm building a covered deck off my upstairs bedroom. The design will use 4x6
> posts and a 4x10 beam for the base support and 4x4 posts and a 4X8 beam for
> the roof. According to the carpenter, I need gussets to tie the posts to the
> beams. Since the gussets will show, I'd like the to be as decorative as
> possible. Two questions:
>
> What is the best metal to use for gussets (something non-corrosive, with
> adequate flexibility but high yield strength)?
>
> Can you recommend any companies that sell decorative metal works made from
> this material?
>
> Tim Robinson
>
>

For my log house, I designed and had fabricated 1/4" steel glulam
hangares and gusset plates. I then had them powder coated black and
they look sharp. You could use SS, but that is expensive. Galvanized
is much cheaper, but looks cheap also. I'd use steel and have it powder
coated. It'll likely outlast the wood to which it is attached.

Matt

Robert Allison

2007-05-20, 8:25 pm

Ted (not really ted) Perkins wrote:
> I'm building a covered deck off my upstairs bedroom. The design will use 4x6
> posts and a 4x10 beam for the base support and 4x4 posts and a 4X8 beam for
> the roof. According to the carpenter, I need gussets to tie the posts to the
> beams. Since the gussets will show, I'd like the to be as decorative as
> possible. Two questions:
>
> What is the best metal to use for gussets (something non-corrosive, with
> adequate flexibility but high yield strength)?
>
> Can you recommend any companies that sell decorative metal works made from
> this material?
>
> Tim Robinson
>
>

Here is one type that is more funtional than decorative:

http://www.strongtie.com/products/c...ors/HL_APG.html

Simpson has some other types of post to beam connectors that I
have used that are pretty rustic looking.

I fabricate my own gusset plates with 1/4" steel and then have
them powdercoated. You can get any design you want that way.

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

Dave

2007-05-21, 3:25 am

"Ted (not really ted) Perkins" <tperkins@hotmail.com.nospam> wrote in
message news:lf%3i.8439$296.8116@newsread4.news.pas.earthlink.net...
> I'm building a covered deck off my upstairs bedroom. The design will use
> 4x6 posts and a 4x10 beam for the base support and 4x4 posts and a 4X8
> beam for the roof. According to the carpenter, I need gussets to tie the
> posts to the beams. Since the gussets will show, I'd like the to be as
> decorative as possible. Two questions:
>
> What is the best metal to use for gussets (something non-corrosive, with
> adequate flexibility but high yield strength)?
>
> Can you recommend any companies that sell decorative metal works made from
> this material?
>
> Tim Robinson
>

Half cut the corners. Both the beams and the posts. Use galvanized 3/8" X
6" lag bolts with washers. Predrill the hole into the material that takes
the threads for securing. Use a countersink hole to make head of bolt flush
with surface. Countersink hole will be just 1/8" than the washer. 3 for
the X8 beam, 4 for the X10 beam where the post attaches. Beam and post must
be temporarily secured square etc during the drilling and bolting process.

The carpenter probably said "gusset brace", or "gusset plate". Plain old
"gusset" means something else entirely.
Dave

Matt Whiting

2007-05-21, 9:25 am

Dave wrote:
> "Ted (not really ted) Perkins" <tperkins@hotmail.com.nospam> wrote in
> message news:lf%3i.8439$296.8116@newsread4.news.pas.earthlink.net...
>
> Half cut the corners. Both the beams and the posts. Use galvanized 3/8" X
> 6" lag bolts with washers. Predrill the hole into the material that takes
> the threads for securing. Use a countersink hole to make head of bolt flush
> with surface. Countersink hole will be just 1/8" than the washer. 3 for
> the X8 beam, 4 for the X10 beam where the post attaches. Beam and post must
> be temporarily secured square etc during the drilling and bolting process.
>
> The carpenter probably said "gusset brace", or "gusset plate". Plain old
> "gusset" means something else entirely.
> Dave
>
>

I'd want to see the loading of this beam/post combination before
recommending that you give up half the shear strength with a 50% section
reduction for a lap joint.

Matt

RicodJour

2007-05-21, 1:25 pm

On May 20, 11:56 pm, "Dave" <spamyours...@virus.net> wrote:
>
> Half cut the corners. Both the beams and the posts. Use galvanized 3/8" X
> 6" lag bolts with washers. Predrill the hole into the material that takes
> the threads for securing. Use a countersink hole to make head of bolt flush
> with surface. Countersink hole will be just 1/8" than the washer. 3 for
> the X8 beam, 4 for the X10 beam where the post attaches. Beam and post must
> be temporarily secured square etc during the drilling and bolting process.

That will tie the structure together, but will do very little for
lateral load resistance. Wind loading on a covered porch is probably
the critical load.

> The carpenter probably said "gusset brace", or "gusset plate". Plain old
> "gusset" means something else entirely.

There is no need to refine the definition of the word gusset. In
pretty much all circumstances, regardless of the material, gusset
refers to a reinforcing piece of material, generally triangular in
shape. If you are talking about structural framing concerns there is
really no way to misinterpret the word gusset.

R

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