Building and Construction - between sheetrock and a hard place

Author

between sheetrock and a hard place

2007-05-27, 8:25 pm

Hi all,
I am building a log sided home (stick built). On the interior I am using
matched pine so as to give the inside a log look. I am in a kind of weird
situation with some firecode sheetrock, a window header, and matched pine.
The problem is that I had put up firecode sheet rock for a wood stove right
near a window. I now realize that when I want to join the match pine atop
the window at the header and meet the sheet rock I have nothing to fasten
the matched pine to. See picture.

http://www.geocities.com/guitarage4...indowheader.JPG

Can I put a piece of blocking on the left side of the header so I can nail
the pine to it? I am at the extreme limit for the sheetrock as far as fire
code goes. I know the headers for windows have to be the way they are.. but
to me this seems like I need to have an exception. I could take about a 3/4
of an inch of sheet rock away but it will look funky.

benick

2007-05-27, 8:25 pm

"M" <mr_mark(yuckspam)@roadrunner.com> wrote in message
news:465a08d1$0$2336$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
> Hi all,
> I am building a log sided home (stick built). On the interior I am
> using matched pine so as to give the inside a log look. I am in a kind of
> weird situation with some firecode sheetrock, a window header, and matched
> pine. The problem is that I had put up firecode sheet rock for a wood
> stove right near a window. I now realize that when I want to join the
> match pine atop the window at the header and meet the sheet rock I have
> nothing to fasten the matched pine to. See picture.
>
> http://www.geocities.com/guitarage4...indowheader.JPG
>
> Can I put a piece of blocking on the left side of the header so I can nail
> the pine to it? I am at the extreme limit for the sheetrock as far as
> fire code goes. I know the headers for windows have to be the way they
> are.. but to me this seems like I need to have an exception. I could take
> about a 3/4 of an inch of sheet rock away but it will look funky.
You could put L Bead or J Bead on the edges of the sheetrock and butt pine
to that. Should have used more sheetrock to allow a better less visible
transition away from the window or perhaps do the whole wall in sheetrock
then put pine over the sheetrock leaving sheetrock exposed where the fire
code requires it.
>

DanG

2007-05-27, 8:25 pm

I guess I'm lost.

Are you just wanting a way to nail the pine at the left side of
the window head? Most headers, or at least - headers used to be,
are made of solid dimension lumber, not I joists. Certainly you
can add whatever filler in the header web that you desire. It is
often required at the bearing ends of I joists.

You have some bigger issues coming IMHO. How are you planning to
deal with window trim? Are you going to have anything on top of
the drywall? Are you planning anything at the chimney (straighten
it up, hide it) ? Are you planning butt joints in vertical line
at window edges? What are you doing for ceiling?

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgriff237@7cox.net

"M" <mr_mark(yuckspam)@roadrunner.com> wrote in message
news:465a08d1$0$2336$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
> Hi all,
> I am building a log sided home (stick built). On the interior
> I am using matched pine so as to give the inside a log look. I
> am in a kind of weird situation with some firecode sheetrock, a
> window header, and matched pine. The problem is that I had put
> up firecode sheet rock for a wood stove right near a window. I
> now realize that when I want to join the match pine atop the
> window at the header and meet the sheet rock I have nothing to
> fasten the matched pine to. See picture.
>
> http://www.geocities.com/guitarage4...indowheader.JPG
>
> Can I put a piece of blocking on the left side of the header so
> I can nail the pine to it? I am at the extreme limit for the
> sheetrock as far as fire code goes. I know the headers for
> windows have to be the way they are.. but to me this seems like
> I need to have an exception. I could take about a 3/4 of an
> inch of sheet rock away but it will look funky.
>

Mike Paulsen

2007-05-27, 8:25 pm

M wrote:
> Hi all,
> I am building a log sided home (stick built). On the interior I am using
> matched pine so as to give the inside a log look. I am in a kind of weird
> situation with some firecode sheetrock, a window header, and matched pine.
> The problem is that I had put up firecode sheet rock for a wood stove right
> near a window.
(snip)

You gain nothing in terms of meeting clearance specifications by using
the sheetrock rather than the pine. They're both considered combustible.

You have a stick built wall. It's combustible whether you cover it with
pine, Sheetrock, or cement board. (Cement board is non-combustible, but
it would still transfer the heat to the framing.)

Check the stove and (stove pipe/chimney) specifications for clearance
values. You can usually significantly reduce the clearance to the wall
by installing a non-combustible panel spaced 1" out from the combustible
wall surface. Cement board or sheet metal are commonly used for this
along with 1" ceramic spacers. You want to leave gaps at the top and
bottom so air can circulate behind the panel.

Have your insurance company and building inspector approve your plan
before you continue. (Check your policy -- you're often not covered if
you don't declare the stove.) If you don't have a building inspector,
try the fire department. This is something you don't want to screw up.

2007-05-27, 9:25 pm

"DanG" <dgriff23@7cox.net> wrote in message
news:jHp6i.392306$115.15877@newsfe10.phx...
>I guess I'm lost.
>
> Are you just wanting a way to nail the pine at the left side of the window
> head? Most headers, or at least - headers used to be, are made of solid
> dimension lumber, not I joists. Certainly you can add whatever filler in
> the header web that you desire. It is often required at the bearing ends
> of I joists.
>
> You have some bigger issues coming IMHO. How are you planning to deal
> with window trim?

very thin trim...lol

Are you going to have anything on top of
> the drywall?

yes I plan to cover the loft opening above. Continue with more pine

Are you planning anything at the chimney (straighten
> it up, hide it) ?

no staightening... it is a rustic look...

Are you planning butt joints in vertical line
> at window edges?

I guess that is what I might do but I am toying with a thin trim on left
side of window continuing up. I thought about making the sheet rock look
like a chimney.

What are you doing for ceiling?

cathedral ceilings

>
> --
> ______________________________
> Keep the whole world singing . . . .
> DanG (remove the sevens)
> dgriff237@7cox.net
>
>
>
> "M" <mr_mark(yuckspam)@roadrunner.com> wrote in message
> news:465a08d1$0$2336$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
>
>

2007-05-27, 9:25 pm

"Mike Paulsen" <mpaulsen@charter.net> wrote in message
news:ZMp6i.1815$As5.191@newsfe12.lga...
>M wrote:
> (snip)
>
> You gain nothing in terms of meeting clearance specifications by using the
> sheetrock rather than the pine. They're both considered combustible.
>
> You have a stick built wall. It's combustible whether you cover it with
> pine, Sheetrock, or cement board. (Cement board is non-combustible, but it
> would still transfer the heat to the framing.)
>
> Check the stove and (stove pipe/chimney) specifications for clearance
> values. You can usually significantly reduce the clearance to the wall by
> installing a non-combustible panel spaced 1" out from the combustible wall
> surface. Cement board or sheet metal are commonly used for this along with
> 1" ceramic spacers. You want to leave gaps at the top and bottom so air
> can circulate behind the panel.
>
> Have your insurance company and building inspector approve your plan
> before you continue. (Check your policy -- you're often not covered if you
> don't declare the stove.) If you don't have a building inspector, try the
> fire department. This is something you don't want to screw up.

I have done the above and was told to have sheet rock (firecode) on the
wall. It has a large sheet metal plate with the 1" spacers etc. Fire code
requires no pine behind the metal plate. Must have 18" of clearance to any
combustible surface for uninsulated pipe. 3" of clearance to combustible
material with insulated pipe. Yes I talked to all the people you mentioned
and followed the code. That is why I am with the sheetrock. I hate the
sheet rock but I wanted to be within the limits of the fire codes.

2007-05-27, 9:25 pm

marson

2007-05-28, 9:25 am

On May 27, 9:10 pm, "M" <mr_mark(yuckspam)@roadrunner.com> wrote:
> "DanG" <dgrif...@7cox.net> wrote in message
>
> news:jHp6i.392306$115.15877@newsfe10.phx...
>
>
>
> Yes.... so I can affix another 2x8 onto the header? I don't need to have a
> gap between the finished wall board and the header slab?

I often frame headers the same way. 1 or 2 2x's oriented vertically,
with another 2x6 oriented flat ways on the bottom. The vertical 2 x's
are placed to the outside, to allow the assembly to be insulated after
the building is dried in. If this is what was done in your case, you
will have a space of 2". I'd suggest a few 2x4 blocks ripped to 2"
where you need backing. Then insulate that space. I prefer 2" rigid,
but fiberglass would be OK.

You've got a lot of work to do to tighten up your vapor barrier.

PeterD

2007-05-28, 1:25 pm

On Sun, 27 May 2007 18:40:12 -0400, "M"
<mr_mark(yuckspam)@roadrunner.com> wrote:

>Hi all,
> I am building a log sided home (stick built). On the interior I am using
>matched pine so as to give the inside a log look. I am in a kind of weird
>situation with some firecode sheetrock, a window header, and matched pine.
>The problem is that I had put up firecode sheet rock for a wood stove right
>near a window. I now realize that when I want to join the match pine atop
>the window at the header and meet the sheet rock I have nothing to fasten
>the matched pine to. See picture.
>
>http://www.geocities.com/guitarage4...indowheader.JPG
>
>Can I put a piece of blocking on the left side of the header so I can nail
>the pine to it? I am at the extreme limit for the sheetrock as far as fire
>code goes. I know the headers for windows have to be the way they are.. but
>to me this seems like I need to have an exception. I could take about a 3/4
>of an inch of sheet rock away but it will look funky.
>

1. Aim your camera down lower (towards the floor) and reshoot your
picture.

2. I'd guess from that picture what you have won't meet code, but I
could be wrong. I can't really see where the stove is.

3. Left side? The left side of the sheetrock, and the heater don't
seem visible in your image.

4. Looks like all wood above the window, so why not use it? Or is the
darker piece behind the pastic vapor barrier set in some? If yes, then
use shim pieces to bring it out flush. Maybe a 2x4 sideways (if it
fits), or just rip down a 2x4 piece of scrap in your table saw?

PeterD

2007-05-28, 1:25 pm

On Sun, 27 May 2007 21:59:27 -0400, "M"
<mr_mark(yuckspam)@roadrunner.com> wrote:

>
>Are you planning anything at the chimney (straighten
>
>no staightening... it is a rustic look...
>

IMHO that's not rustic, it's sloppy construction. It may look 'rustic'
today, but in six months you'll look at it and say "Why did I do
that?" And in two years, you'll rip it out, saying over and over
"Should have done it right the first time". <g>

2007-05-28, 5:25 pm

"PeterD" <peter2@hipson.net> wrote in message
news:avrl53tigvk6tms2k9lh99g5t69rr31por@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 27 May 2007 21:59:27 -0400, "M"
> <mr_mark(yuckspam)@roadrunner.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> IMHO that's not rustic, it's sloppy construction. It may look 'rustic'
> today, but in six months you'll look at it and say "Why did I do
> that?" And in two years, you'll rip it out, saying over and over
> "Should have done it right the first time". <g>

Well it has been 4 years and i still like it

PeterD

2007-05-29, 9:25 am

On Mon, 28 May 2007 17:50:53 -0400, "M"
<mr_mark(yuckspam)@roadrunner.com> wrote:

>
>"PeterD" <peter2@hipson.net> wrote in message
>news:avrl53tigvk6tms2k9lh99g5t69rr31por@4ax.com...
>
>Well it has been 4 years and i still like it
>

<bg> but you're not done yet!

OK, it's your house... I think you got a lot of good ideas in the
replies.

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