|
Home > Archive > Building and Construction > August 2007 > ceramic tile underlay over advantech
You are viewing an archived Text-only version of the thread.
To view this thread in it's original format and/or if you want to reply to
this thread please [click here]
| Author |
ceramic tile underlay over advantech
|
|
| geo.nova@hotmail.com 2007-08-11, 1:25 pm |
| Can anyone tell me the proper adhesive to secure ceramic tile
underlayment (hardiboard or duroc) to advantech subfloor? I know this
is done all the time so I assume there is a typical method. Thinset
mortar is not recommended for particle board which advantech is.
Someone told me liquid nails is what I should use....?
Thanks in advance,
K
| |
| Dave in Houston 2007-08-11, 1:25 pm |
|
<geo.nova@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1186854467.112367.97950@d55g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
> Can anyone tell me the proper adhesive to secure ceramic tile
> underlayment (hardiboard or duroc) to advantech subfloor? I know this
> is done all the time so I assume there is a typical method. Thinset
> mortar is not recommended for particle board which advantech is.
> Someone told me liquid nails is what I should use....?
Liquid Nails and screws.
--
NuWave Dave in Houston
| |
| geo.nova@hotmail.com 2007-08-12, 9:25 am |
| On Aug 11, 2:04 pm, "Dave in Houston" <Dj...@houston.rr.com> wrote:
> <geo.n...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:1186854467.112367.97950@d55g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
>
>
> Liquid Nails and screws.
>
> --
> NuWave Dave in Houston
Anyone else??
| |
| Robert Allison 2007-08-12, 1:25 pm |
| geo.nova@hotmail.com wrote:
> On Aug 11, 2:04 pm, "Dave in Houston" <Dj...@houston.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Anyone else??
>
First of all, I would seal the particle board with a product
like RedGard or equivalent.
http://tinyurl.com/2h5leb
That will help to protect it from the inevitable moisture
damage. That done, I would not use liquid nails, but a
product like PL400, which is self shimming.
http://www.doityourself.com/invt/4165965
What that means is that if there are variations in floor
heighth (an uneven floor), the PL400 will fill AND SUPPORT the
gaps between the particle board and the hardibacker. This
reduces flex which is the enemy of tile installations.
In addition, I would use screws to mechanically fasten the
hardibacker. The PL400 will help to bridge depressions and
bond the substrates together and the screws will pull the two
surfaces together tightly. The entire system serves to
eliminate flex.
Finally another application of Red Guard over the seams to
eliminate as much water intrusion onto the particle board as
possible.
The best possible application would be to replace the particle
board with plywood, but you did not ask that question. Also,
make sure that you have at least 1-1/4" of support under the tile.
--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX
| |
| RicodJour 2007-08-13, 9:25 am |
| On Aug 11, 1:47 pm, geo.n...@hotmail.com wrote:
> Can anyone tell me the proper adhesive to secure ceramic tile
> underlayment (hardiboard or duroc) to advantech subfloor? I know this
> is done all the time so I assume there is a typical method. Thinset
> mortar is not recommended for particle board which advantech is.
> Someone told me liquid nails is what I should use....?
Advantech is billed as being water resistant, though not for long term
exposure. I seriously doubt you'd have a problem with directly
attaching the backer board with thinset or mastic. If you're
concerned, you could seal the Advantech before using the thinset, and/
or you could use an alternative system such as Schluter's Ditra.
http://www.johnbridge.com/ceramic_tile_floors_ditra.htm It's a bit
more expensive, but it's waterproof, serves as an uncoupling membrane
(no cracks) and it's easy to install.
Check out the John Bridge tile forums - excellent tiling resource.
http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/index.php
R
| |
|
| geo.nova@hotmail.com wrote:
> On Aug 11, 2:04 pm, "Dave in Houston" <Dj...@houston.rr.com> wrote:
>
> Anyone else??
>
Liquid nails and screws is what I've seen done. Thinset is for the tile
not the backer board.
--
Art
| |
| RicodJour 2007-08-14, 9:25 am |
| On Aug 12, 10:29 am, Art <Arte...@spamtrap.invalid> wrote:
> geo.n...@hotmail.com wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> Liquid nails and screws is what I've seen done. Thinset is for the tile
> not the backer board.
Not quite true. The prime enemy of tile is substrate movement.
Thinset supports the entire backer board, not just a few spots like
construction adhesive. If your subfloor is dead flat and you've dealt
with lippage between adjoining sheets by sanding or using a feathering
compound, the thinset is probably not necessary. I still use it every
time as it's foolproof and takes care of a lot of issues in one step.
Bonding layers together provides a far stiffer assembly than screws
and a bit of glue.
This from USG's web site:
Floors
Lamination
Laminate 12.7 mm (1/2)
DUROCK Panel to minimum
16 mm (5/8) thick exterior
grade plywood using adhesive
or mortar suitable for bonding
cement backer board to
plywood.Apply adhesive with
16 mm (5/8) V-notched
trowel or mortar with 6 mm
(1/4) square-notched trowel.
Laminate and secure one
panel at a time.Cover the
adhesive with the board
immediately.
R
| |
|
| RicodJour wrote:
> On Aug 12, 10:29 am, Art <Arte...@spamtrap.invalid> wrote:
>
> Not quite true. The prime enemy of tile is substrate movement.
> Thinset supports the entire backer board, not just a few spots like
> construction adhesive. If your subfloor is dead flat and you've dealt
> with lippage between adjoining sheets by sanding or using a feathering
> compound, the thinset is probably not necessary. I still use it every
> time as it's foolproof and takes care of a lot of issues in one step.
> Bonding layers together provides a far stiffer assembly than screws
> and a bit of glue.
>
>
I will remember that. Thanks, it's a good day when I learn something here.
--
Art
|
|
|
|
|