|
Home > Archive > Building and Construction > September 2007 > Finger Jointed 2 x 8
You are viewing an archived Text-only version of the thread.
To view this thread in it's original format and/or if you want to reply to
this thread please [click here]
| Author |
Finger Jointed 2 x 8
|
|
| spebby_92@hotmail.com 2007-09-18, 5:25 pm |
| I am remodeling my house and have discovered a valley rafter that was
sagging because it was made up of several 2 x 8" scabbed together with
a 1 x 8 on one side. The valley rafter is 28' long. The only 2 x 8
that I can find that long is a finger jointed one. Is a finger
jointed 2 x 8 (douglas fir) suitable for a valley rafter?
| |
| Robert Allison 2007-09-18, 5:25 pm |
| spebby_92@hotmail.com wrote:
> I am remodeling my house and have discovered a valley rafter that was
> sagging because it was made up of several 2 x 8" scabbed together with
> a 1 x 8 on one side. The valley rafter is 28' long. The only 2 x 8
> that I can find that long is a finger jointed one. Is a finger
> jointed 2 x 8 (douglas fir) suitable for a valley rafter?
>
2000 International Building Code (published by International
Code Council) Section 2303.1.1:
"Approved end-jointed lumber is permitted to be used
interchangeably with solid-sawn members of the same species
and grade."
# 2000 International Residential Code for One- and Two-Family
Dwellings (published by International Code Council) contains
three separate references.
Floor Framing, Section R502.1.3: "Approved end-jointed wood
identified by a grade mark conforming to Section R501.2 may be
used interchangeably with solid-sawn members of the same
species and grade."
Wall Framing, Section R602.1.1: "Approved end-jointed wood
identified by a grade mark conforming to Section R602.1 may be
used interchangeably with solid-sawn members of the same
species and grade."
Roof Framing, Section R802.1.2: "Approved end-jointed wood
identified by a grade mark conforming to Section R802.1 may be
used interchangeably with solid-sawn members of the same
species and grade."
However, remember that this is a MINIMUM standard. A valley
rafter is subjected to some heavy loading in certain instances
and I would perhaps be more inclined to use two 14' pieces
with an intermediate support. You can support this in the
middle if you can go down to a wall. Getting the old one out
and a new one in is going to be your major job on this one.
--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX
| |
|
| Robert Allison wrote:
> spebby_92@hotmail.com wrote:
>
> 2000 International Building Code (published by International Code
> Council) Section 2303.1.1:
>
> "Approved end-jointed lumber is permitted to be used interchangeably
> with solid-sawn members of the same species and grade."
>
> # 2000 International Residential Code for One- and Two-Family Dwellings
> (published by International Code Council) contains three separate
> references.
>
> Floor Framing, Section R502.1.3: "Approved end-jointed wood identified
> by a grade mark conforming to Section R501.2 may be used interchangeably
> with solid-sawn members of the same species and grade."
>
> Wall Framing, Section R602.1.1: "Approved end-jointed wood identified by
> a grade mark conforming to Section R602.1 may be used interchangeably
> with solid-sawn members of the same species and grade."
>
> Roof Framing, Section R802.1.2: "Approved end-jointed wood identified by
> a grade mark conforming to Section R802.1 may be used interchangeably
> with solid-sawn members of the same species and grade."
>
> However, remember that this is a MINIMUM standard. A valley rafter is
> subjected to some heavy loading in certain instances and I would perhaps
> be more inclined to use two 14' pieces with an intermediate support.
> You can support this in the middle if you can go down to a wall.
> Getting the old one out and a new one in is going to be your major job
> on this one.
What he said...
If have a jacking point(s) to raise it, I'd be tempted to do that, pull
the 1x scab and scab 2x of longest span could get there and optionally
add a 3/4" ply on the other side. Adequately glued and nailed, of course...
--
| |
| spebby_92@hotmail.com 2007-09-18, 5:25 pm |
| On Sep 18, 4:15 pm, Robert Allison <rimsho...@spamless.net> wrote:
> spebby...@hotmail.com wrote:
>
> 2000 International Building Code (published by International
> Code Council) Section 2303.1.1:
>
> "Approved end-jointed lumber is permitted to be used
> interchangeably with solid-sawn members of the same species
> and grade."
>
> # 2000 International Residential Code for One- and Two-Family
> Dwellings (published by International Code Council) contains
> three separate references.
>
> Floor Framing, Section R502.1.3: "Approved end-jointed wood
> identified by a grade mark conforming to Section R501.2 may be
> used interchangeably with solid-sawn members of the same
> species and grade."
>
> Wall Framing, Section R602.1.1: "Approved end-jointed wood
> identified by a grade mark conforming to Section R602.1 may be
> used interchangeably with solid-sawn members of the same
> species and grade."
>
> Roof Framing, Section R802.1.2: "Approved end-jointed wood
> identified by a grade mark conforming to Section R802.1 may be
> used interchangeably with solid-sawn members of the same
> species and grade."
>
> However, remember that this is a MINIMUM standard. A valley
> rafter is subjected to some heavy loading in certain instances
> and I would perhaps be more inclined to use two 14' pieces
> with an intermediate support. You can support this in the
> middle if you can go down to a wall. Getting the old one out
> and a new one in is going to be your major job on this one.
>
> --
> Robert Allison
> Rimshot, Inc.
> Georgetown, TX
Thanks Robert for the quick reply. The valley rafter crosses a load
bearing wall (ceiling joists lapped at this wall) and a non-load
bearing wall (parallel to joists). If crosses the load bearing wall
at 6' and the non-load bearing wall close to the center of the valley
rafter. Can the valley rafter be supported by the non-load bearing
wall? Currently, there are no supports.
Any tips on an easy way to remove the existing valley rafter? My plan
is to add some temporary bracing and use a nail puller to remove the
nails from the jack rafters, remove the existing rafter and insert the
new one. I have removed the roof sheating in this area.
| |
| Dennis 2007-09-18, 8:25 pm |
| > Roof Framing, Section R802.1.2: "Approved end-jointed wood identified by a
> grade mark conforming to Section R802.1 may be used interchangeably with
> solid-sawn members of the same species and grade."
I would add to check for the following grademarks, "CERT EXT JNTS" and make
certain that it is NOT marked "VERTICAL USE ONLY" (indicating that it is
intended for compressive loads only).
| |
| Steve Barker LT 2007-09-18, 8:25 pm |
| And maybe a vertical support near the point of jacking.
s
"dpb" <none@non.net> wrote in message news:fcpg2v$fmn$2@aioe.org...
>
>
> What he said...
>
> If have a jacking point(s) to raise it, I'd be tempted to do that, pull
> the 1x scab and scab 2x of longest span could get there and optionally add
> a 3/4" ply on the other side. Adequately glued and nailed, of course...
>
> --
>
>
| |
| Robert Allison 2007-09-18, 9:25 pm |
| spebby_92@hotmail.com wrote:
> On Sep 18, 4:15 pm, Robert Allison <rimsho...@spamless.net> wrote:
>
>
>
> Thanks Robert for the quick reply. The valley rafter crosses a load
> bearing wall (ceiling joists lapped at this wall) and a non-load
> bearing wall (parallel to joists). If crosses the load bearing wall
> at 6' and the non-load bearing wall close to the center of the valley
> rafter. Can the valley rafter be supported by the non-load bearing
> wall? Currently, there are no supports.
>
> Any tips on an easy way to remove the existing valley rafter? My plan
> is to add some temporary bracing and use a nail puller to remove the
> nails from the jack rafters, remove the existing rafter and insert the
> new one. I have removed the roof sheating in this area.
>
With the sheathing removed, use a sawzall with a long blade
(demo blade) to cut the nails at each jack, plate, ridge, etc.
Then you can cut up the old rafter to get it out more easily.
Don't forget the fascia and possibly sheetrock may be nailed
to this also.
Then install your new rafter or rafter parts and use plywood
on both sides to scab them together using glue and nails.
Then run your intermediate support down to the non load
bearing wall and brace as necessary. I would run a 2x4 cut at
the angle of the rafter under the rafter and another beside
it. Nail them together and to the upper plate of your wall
and the side of the rafter. If the wall you are using for the
support is not directly under the joint of the two parts of
your rafter, nail a 2x4 flat to the bottom of the rafter and
then place the support under that.
The difference between a bearing and a non bearing wall is
(generally) that the bearing wall is being used to support
something. The non-load bearing is not. It doesn't mean it
is not capable of bearing a load. (But it may be less capable
if it is framed 2' OC. A brace will cause no problems, though.)
--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX
| |
| marson 2007-09-19, 9:25 am |
| On Sep 18, 8:29 pm, Robert Allison <rimsho...@spamless.net> wrote:
> spebby...@hotmail.com wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> With the sheathing removed, use a sawzall with a long blade
> (demo blade) to cut the nails at each jack, plate, ridge, etc.
> Then you can cut up the old rafter to get it out more easily.
> Don't forget the fascia and possibly sheetrock may be nailed
> to this also.
>
> Then install your new rafter or rafter parts and use plywood
> on both sides to scab them together using glue and nails.
> Then run your intermediate support down to the non load
> bearing wall and brace as necessary. I would run a 2x4 cut at
> the angle of the rafter under the rafter and another beside
> it. Nail them together and to the upper plate of your wall
> and the side of the rafter. If the wall you are using for the
> support is not directly under the joint of the two parts of
> your rafter, nail a 2x4 flat to the bottom of the rafter and
> then place the support under that.
>
> The difference between a bearing and a non bearing wall is
> (generally) that the bearing wall is being used to support
> something. The non-load bearing is not. It doesn't mean it
> is not capable of bearing a load. (But it may be less capable
> if it is framed 2' OC. A brace will cause no problems, though.)
>
> --
> Robert Allison
> Rimshot, Inc.
> Georgetown, TX
I would use engineered lumber (microllam or parallam) for anything
that needs to be long and strong.
| |
| spebby_92@hotmail.com 2007-09-19, 9:25 am |
| On Sep 19, 6:53 am, marson <briankon...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Sep 18, 8:29 pm, Robert Allison <rimsho...@spamless.net> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I would use engineered lumber (microllam or parallam) for anything
> that needs to be long and strong.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Thanks all for the prompt replies. I am not sure which method I will
use, it depends on several factors. I will check the availability of
engineered lumber in my location. I need to get the roof closed as
soon as possible before the project turns into a bigger project. It's
raining this morning and so far the tarp is working. This item was
unexpected. I will post the solution I used when I finish the
project, probably next week.
| |
|
| One more idea:
Leave the existing valley in location and add the strengthening
beam under it. Scab or bolt through 2x4 strapping on each side to
keep it in plane. Perhaps it can span the existing splices.
Brace to walls wherever possible.
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgriff237@7cox.net
<spebby_92@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1190209588.255518.168980@n39g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
> On Sep 19, 6:53 am, marson <briankon...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks all for the prompt replies. I am not sure which method I
> will
> use, it depends on several factors. I will check the
> availability of
> engineered lumber in my location. I need to get the roof closed
> as
> soon as possible before the project turns into a bigger project.
> It's
> raining this morning and so far the tarp is working. This item
> was
> unexpected. I will post the solution I used when I finish the
> project, probably next week.
>
|
|
|
|
|