Building and Construction - Sheetrock Tape -- is it always necessary at joints?

Author

Sheetrock Tape -- is it always necessary at joints?

HKEK

2008-01-06, 8:25 pm

I am fixing some walls in my house that was built in 1971. In the
entryway, there is a wall that is a story and a half. There are [were]
two horizontal joints in the sheetrock and they always looked awful
because they stuck out, i.e., they were slightly raised from the rest
of the wall and the lighting above made them visually obvious.

I have cut the joints out by removing the entire built up area which
was about 16 inches wide (each seam). I plan to put in an entirely new
piece of sheetrock. I want the joint to be perfectly matched to the
level of the sheetrock so that it does not cast any shadow when
lighted from above.

If I use tape, the joint will end up being higher than the adjacent
surface of the sheetrock. Question: Is there some other precision
technique to finish these joints (was 2, now 4!) so that the surface
is perfectly flush with the surface of the sheet rock?

One thought: Strip the paper off the sheetrock either side of the
joint for a distance equal to half the tape width to provide a
depression for the tape and compound.

How else might this be done successfully for a perfectly flush joint
that won't crack over time?

S. Barker

2008-01-06, 9:25 pm

All's you have to do is feather the mud back far enough to hide the change
in level.

s

"HKEK" <coolmale@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:a361e464-0c1c-4626-8728-d1cd8d803c52@e6g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
>I am fixing some walls in my house that was built in 1971. In the
> entryway, there is a wall that is a story and a half. There are [were]
> two horizontal joints in the sheetrock and they always looked awful
> because they stuck out, i.e., they were slightly raised from the rest
> of the wall and the lighting above made them visually obvious.
>
> I have cut the joints out by removing the entire built up area which
> was about 16 inches wide (each seam). I plan to put in an entirely new
> piece of sheetrock. I want the joint to be perfectly matched to the
> level of the sheetrock so that it does not cast any shadow when
> lighted from above.
>
> If I use tape, the joint will end up being higher than the adjacent
> surface of the sheetrock. Question: Is there some other precision
> technique to finish these joints (was 2, now 4!) so that the surface
> is perfectly flush with the surface of the sheet rock?
>
> One thought: Strip the paper off the sheetrock either side of the
> joint for a distance equal to half the tape width to provide a
> depression for the tape and compound.
>
> How else might this be done successfully for a perfectly flush joint
> that won't crack over time?

Dave in Houston

2008-01-07, 5:25 pm

"HKEK" <coolmale@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:a361e464-0c1c-4626-8728-d1cd8d803c52@e6g2000prf.googlegroups.com...

> How else might this be done successfully for a perfectly flush joint
> that won't crack over time?

For repairing cracks we've all but quit taping. So, this make work with
edge seams but don't hold me to it.

V-groove the joints with a utility knife 1/4 to 3/8 inch deep. Then
fill the joint with Liquid Nails and smooth it down level with the surface
using a putty knife. After it's hardened remove any surface bits and pieces
of the Liquid Nails then go over the joint with a pigmented shellac (Kilz or
Zinsser) to insure there is no bleed-through. When that's dried float the
joint as wide as practical with regular drywall mud. Texture to match.

--
NuWave Dave in Houston

John Grabowski

2008-01-07, 5:25 pm

"HKEK" <coolmale@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:a361e464-0c1c-4626-8728-d1cd8d803c52@e6g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
> I am fixing some walls in my house that was built in 1971. In the
> entryway, there is a wall that is a story and a half. There are [were]
> two horizontal joints in the sheetrock and they always looked awful
> because they stuck out, i.e., they were slightly raised from the rest
> of the wall and the lighting above made them visually obvious.
>
> I have cut the joints out by removing the entire built up area which
> was about 16 inches wide (each seam). I plan to put in an entirely new
> piece of sheetrock. I want the joint to be perfectly matched to the
> level of the sheetrock so that it does not cast any shadow when
> lighted from above.
>
> If I use tape, the joint will end up being higher than the adjacent
> surface of the sheetrock. Question: Is there some other precision
> technique to finish these joints (was 2, now 4!) so that the surface
> is perfectly flush with the surface of the sheet rock?
>
> One thought: Strip the paper off the sheetrock either side of the
> joint for a distance equal to half the tape width to provide a
> depression for the tape and compound.
>
> How else might this be done successfully for a perfectly flush joint
> that won't crack over time?

Is it possible to install the drywall vertically thereby avoiding the butt
joints entirely?

willshak

2008-01-07, 5:25 pm

on 1/7/2008 5:41 PM John Grabowski said the following:
> "HKEK" <coolmale@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:a361e464-0c1c-4626-8728-d1cd8d803c52@e6g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
> Is it possible to install the drywall vertically thereby avoiding the butt
> joints entirely?
>
>
Sure.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
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