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Home > Archive > Building and Construction > April 2008 > Window soundproofing
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Window soundproofing
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| I'm constructing a room in the crawl space of my house, that will be used in
part for a home theather, and I want to make it as soundproof as possible.
This room will have one 5040 window. Home Depot tells me that they can
supply windows that have 3/16" or 1/4" thick panes, as opposed to the normal
1/8". I'm wondering if any one has experience or information as to the
soundproofing effectivesness of these thicker windows?
One alternative I have considered is to frame the window opening using 2x4's
in the 2x6 wall and installing a regular 1/8 pane window as normal. Then
installing a second window on the inside of the 2x4 opening. this would
leave an approx 2" airspace between the two windows, which could present a
cleaning problem with the inevitable collection of dust in this space, (the
windows are going to be sliders), and it might look a little weird. If the
thicker panes are substantially effective, I think I'd would rather go that
route because of the normal appearance.
I'd apprecite any comments on the thicker pane windows or the double window
arrangement, and any other suggestions as to how to make this window as
soundprrof as possible.
TIA
Kevin
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| Wayne Whitney 2008-03-30, 5:25 pm |
| On 2008-03-30, Kevin <kevin-no-spam@sonic.net> wrote:
> Home Depot tells me that they can supply windows that have 3/16" or
> 1/4" thick panes, as opposed to the normal 1/8". I'm wondering if
> any one has experience or information as to the soundproofing
> effectivesness of these thicker windows?
Your best bet along these lines would be to get a double pane unit
with the two panes of unequal thickness, say one 1/8" and one 1/4".
That way the sound has to go through three different layers (each pane
and the air gap in between), each of which will have a different
resonant frequency, so hopefully all the frequencies will get damped
sufficiently. After everything is built, you can always add a third
pane as an interior storm window--again pick a different thickness.
Cheers, Wayne
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| CWatters 2008-03-30, 5:25 pm |
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"Kevin" <kevin-no-spam@sonic.net> wrote in message
news:47efd11c$0$36367$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net...
> I'm constructing a room in the crawl space of my house, that will be used
in
> part for a home theather, and I want to make it as soundproof as possible.
> This room will have one 5040 window. Home Depot tells me that they can
> supply windows that have 3/16" or 1/4" thick panes, as opposed to the
normal
> 1/8". I'm wondering if any one has experience or information as to the
> soundproofing effectivesness of these thicker windows?
This site says thicker glass is better...
http://www.windowstoday.co.uk/sound-insulation.htm
Quote: 1. The transmission loss is increased by 6decibels (db) each time
the frequency of a measurement or the mass per unit of a single layer
partition is doubled. End quote
So it would appear going from 1/8" to 1/4" should reduce noise by 6db.
Some years ago they built a motorway next to the house I was living in. I
was told at the time that a 6 inch air gap beween two sheets of glass was
optimum for noise reduction rather than smaller air gap used for thermal
insulation.
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"CWatters" <colin.watters@NOturnersoakSPAM.plus.com>
wrote in message
news:13uvtai8b10gu85@corp.supernews.com...
>
>
> So it would appear going from 1/8" to 1/4" should
> reduce noise by 6db.
>
I built 2 radio stations. Stopping sound through the
glass is simple. Nothing fancy like different
thicknesses and all that stuff. Any glass will work.
Just use 2 panes and space them uneven as in maybe 1
inch apart on the top and 3 inches on the bottom. The
sound will lose itself in there bouncing around. You
still need to double stud the walls etc though. I know
this works.
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| S. Barker 2008-03-30, 8:25 pm |
| do you live next to the airport or a drag strip? and just how deep IS this
crawl space? Or did you mean to say basement?
s
"Kevin" <kevin-no-spam@sonic.net> wrote in message
news:47efd11c$0$36367$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net...
> I'm constructing a room in the crawl space of my house, that will be used
> in
> part for a home theather, and I want to make it as soundproof as possible.
> This room will have one 5040 window. Home Depot tells me that they can
> supply windows that have 3/16" or 1/4" thick panes, as opposed to the
> normal
> 1/8". I'm wondering if any one has experience or information as to the
> soundproofing effectivesness of these thicker windows?
>
> One alternative I have considered is to frame the window opening using
> 2x4's
> in the 2x6 wall and installing a regular 1/8 pane window as normal. Then
> installing a second window on the inside of the 2x4 opening. this would
> leave an approx 2" airspace between the two windows, which could present a
> cleaning problem with the inevitable collection of dust in this space,
> (the
> windows are going to be sliders), and it might look a little weird. If the
> thicker panes are substantially effective, I think I'd would rather go
> that
> route because of the normal appearance.
>
> I'd apprecite any comments on the thicker pane windows or the double
> window
> arrangement, and any other suggestions as to how to make this window as
> soundprrof as possible.
>
> TIA
> Kevin
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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| tbasc@bellsouth.net 2008-03-31, 9:25 am |
| On Mar 30, 5:40=A0pm, "Glenn" <pilc...@kc.rr.com> wrote:
> "CWatters" <colin.watt...@NOturnersoakSPAM.plus.com>
> wrote in messagenews:13uvtai8b10gu85@corp.supernews.com...
>
>
> I built 2 radio stations. =A0Stopping sound through the
> glass is simple. =A0Nothing fancy like different
> thicknesses and all that stuff. =A0Any glass will work.
> Just use 2 panes and space them uneven as in maybe 1
> inch apart on the top and 3 inches on the bottom. =A0The
> sound will lose itself in there bouncing around. =A0You
> still need to double stud the walls etc though. =A0I know
> this works.
Glenn,
What was the frame material?
T
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| RicodJour 2008-03-31, 9:25 am |
| On Mar 30, 5:40 pm, "Glenn" <pilc...@kc.rr.com> wrote:
>
> I built 2 radio stations. Stopping sound through the
> glass is simple. Nothing fancy like different
> thicknesses and all that stuff. Any glass will work.
> Just use 2 panes and space them uneven as in maybe 1
> inch apart on the top and 3 inches on the bottom. The
> sound will lose itself in there bouncing around. You
> still need to double stud the walls etc though. I know
> this works.
What sort of advice is that, Glenn? Simple and effective...? You're
ruining our reputation! ;)
To the OP: Sound transmission follows different routes. To keep
sound in use absorptive materials (think eggcrate foam on the walls of
a studio), mass (dense wall materials) and construction intended to
prevent structure borne sound (resilient channel and staggered
studs). It's unclear whether your window concern is to keep inside
noise in or outside noise out. Since your question is just about the
window, you could apply a solar film to the inside pane of glass which
would change its resonant frequencies, _slightly_ increase its mass,
and make the surface a bit softer and therefore more absorptive.
Glenn's method is good, but it sounds like you're intending to use a
factory made window for a reason (looks?, ventilation when the theater
isn't in use?), you'd have to use two windows (four panes of glass and
three air spaces). If it's a picture window for light and view you
could build the window yourself incline one pane of glass and seal the
unit to prevent dust. Depending on your location and climate
conditions it might be better to have an insulated unit made for the
interior, incline it a bit, and add a thicker pane of glass on the
outside.
R
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<tbasc@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:a5fb0c0a-9c7b-494d-ba59-ffc5b74aeb81@z38g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
On Mar 30, 5:40 pm, "Glenn" <pilc...@kc.rr.com> wrote:
> "CWatters" <colin.watt...@NOturnersoakSPAM.plus.com>
> wrote in
> messagenews:13uvtai8b10gu85@corp.supernews.com...
>
>
> I built 2 radio stations. Stopping sound through the
> glass is simple. Nothing fancy like different
> thicknesses and all that stuff. Any glass will work.
> Just use 2 panes and space them uneven as in maybe 1
> inch apart on the top and 3 inches on the bottom. The
> sound will lose itself in there bouncing around. You
> still need to double stud the walls etc though. I
> know
> this works.
Glenn,
What was the frame material?
T
1 X door jamb material. Sound through there is
negligible .
The walls, we used 2 X 3 KD studs 16" oc but in 2
separate walls with the studs on the facing wall in the
center of the other studs. We did use a 2 X 6 plate
deciding that sound was negligible too. We did
insulate both 16" stud widths.
| |
| tbasc@bellsouth.net 2008-03-31, 1:25 pm |
| On Mar 31, 11:06=A0am, "Glenn" <pilc...@kc.rr.com> wrote:
> <tb...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
>
> news:a5fb0c0a-9c7b-494d-ba59-ffc5b74aeb81@z38g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
> On Mar 30, 5:40 pm, "Glenn" <pilc...@kc.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Glenn,
> What was the frame material?
> T
>
> 1 X door jamb material. =A0Sound through there is
> negligible .
>
> The walls, we used 2 X 3 KD studs 16" oc but in 2
> separate walls with the studs on the facing wall in the
> center of the other studs. =A0We did use a 2 X 6 plate
> deciding that sound was negligible too. =A0We did
> insulate both 16" stud widths.
Thanks, I assume you sealed plates.
T
| |
|
| Thanks for all the replies. There are some very helpfull ideas there that
will help me arrive at a decision.
To answer a couple of the questions asked. I am turning the crawl space into
a walk out basement. The soundproofing is to keep the sound in, (I like my
music loud, and this is a very quite neighborhood). Much of the walls are
concrete and below grade. While I won't be double framing the framed
portions of the walls, I will be installing sheetrock as normal, and then
'Z' bar on top of that. A second layer of rock will then be mounted on the 'Z'
bar. I'll also be doing this on the ceiling which is the foor for the living
room above. I'll also be packing more than the usual amount of insulation
into the stud, (2X6), and joist spaces, and installing sound dampening
drapes.
The sheetrock/ 'Z' bar, arrangement poses another question. I assume the
arrangement mentioned above, (one layer of rock on studs/joists, then the
'Z' bar and a second layer of rock), is a more effective sound barrier than
installing the 'Z' bar directly on the studs/joists, and then mounting two
layer of rock on the 'Z' bar. Am I correct on this?
Again, thanks for the help.
Kevin.
RicodJour <ricodjour@worldemail.com> wrote:
> On Mar 30, 5:40 pm, "Glenn" <pilc...@kc.rr.com> wrote:
[color=darkred]
> What sort of advice is that, Glenn? Simple and effective...? You're
> ruining our reputation! ;)
> To the OP: Sound transmission follows different routes. To keep
> sound in use absorptive materials (think eggcrate foam on the walls of
> a studio), mass (dense wall materials) and construction intended to
> prevent structure borne sound (resilient channel and staggered
> studs). It's unclear whether your window concern is to keep inside
> noise in or outside noise out. Since your question is just about the
> window, you could apply a solar film to the inside pane of glass which
> would change its resonant frequencies, _slightly_ increase its mass,
> and make the surface a bit softer and therefore more absorptive.
> Glenn's method is good, but it sounds like you're intending to use a
> factory made window for a reason (looks?, ventilation when the theater
> isn't in use?), you'd have to use two windows (four panes of glass and
> three air spaces). If it's a picture window for light and view you
> could build the window yourself incline one pane of glass and seal the
> unit to prevent dust. Depending on your location and climate
> conditions it might be better to have an insulated unit made for the
> interior, incline it a bit, and add a thicker pane of glass on the
> outside.
> R
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