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Home > Archive > Construction forum > December 2005 > 3" Conduit to Meter Panel - Need 5" Offset in 18"
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3" Conduit to Meter Panel - Need 5" Offset in 18"
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| Scott Townsend 2005-12-07, 4:21 pm |
| When the Cement guys poured the Stemwall, they didn't secure the 3" feed
conduit to the Side of the Wall and it sticks out into the Garage. Then to
top it off, the Contractor didn't layout the Studs to match up with the
placement of the panel.
Now I'm stuck with a Panel that has a conduit that is 5" off from where it
can go. Since there is a 6'6" Height Limit for looking at the Meter from
the outside it only gives me about 18" to get the 5" offset.
We tried to bend our one 3" Schd40 conduit with a hot box and could only get
a bit more then 3"
Is there a Piece of Flex or something that we can get to connect the Conduit
to the Panel?
Thanks!
Scott<-
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| Phil Scott 2005-12-07, 5:21 pm |
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"Scott Townsend" <scott-i@.-N0-SPAMplease.enm.com> wrote in
message
news:_RGlf.36630$6e1.7456@newssvr14.news.prodigy.com...
> When the Cement guys poured the Stemwall, they didn't secure
> the 3" feed conduit to the Side of the Wall and it sticks
> out into the Garage. Then to top it off, the Contractor
> didn't layout the Studs to match up with the placement of
> the panel.
Oh gasp... the imprefection of it all/
>
> Now I'm stuck with a Panel that has a conduit that is 5" off
> from where it can go.
We have LB's to cure that problem.
Since there is a 6'6" Height Limit for looking at the Meter
from
> the outside it only gives me about 18" to get the 5" offset.
You should be able to us an LB for that, not an offset.
>
> We tried to bend our one 3" Schd40 conduit with a hot box
> and could only get a bit more then 3"
amazing.
>
> Is there a Piece of Flex or something that we can get to
> connect the Conduit to the Panel?
an LB will work... cost about 30 dollars in that size. A
stock item at any electrical wholesale house.
Hitting a box directly from below in new construction is much
more of a problem in some cases than offsetting the stub in to
the side as your contractor may have had in mind. then using
an LB...fitting the LB provides a wide range of flexiblity
that you do not have otherwise.
Phil Scott
Mechanical and electrical contractor
>
> Thanks!
>
> Scott<-
>
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| Scott Townsend 2005-12-07, 5:21 pm |
| Hey Phil, Thank you for your Reply!
So what you are saying is for me to go through the Side of the Meter Panel
and not the bottom.
And going through the Side I should use a LB Connector.
Hmmm... If the Panel does not have the Cutouts for a Side Connection? I
have a Knockout kit that will pop the 3" hole, though does it matter where
it comes in at? Any Code Issues with it coming in on the Side?
Thanks again for your Reply!
Regards,
Scott<-
"Phil Scott" <philscott@philscott.net> wrote in message
news:dn7g5a$jts$1@news.tdl.com...
>
> "Scott Townsend" <scott-i@.-N0-SPAMplease.enm.com> wrote in message
> news:_RGlf.36630$6e1.7456@newssvr14.news.prodigy.com...
>
> Oh gasp... the imprefection of it all/
>
>
>
> We have LB's to cure that problem.
>
>
>
>
> Since there is a 6'6" Height Limit for looking at the Meter from
>
> You should be able to us an LB for that, not an offset.
>
>
> amazing.
>
>
>
>
> an LB will work... cost about 30 dollars in that size. A stock item at
> any electrical wholesale house.
>
> Hitting a box directly from below in new construction is much more of a
> problem in some cases than offsetting the stub in to the side as your
> contractor may have had in mind. then using an LB...fitting the LB
> provides a wide range of flexiblity that you do not have otherwise.
>
>
> Phil Scott
> Mechanical and electrical contractor
>
>
>
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"Scott Townsend" <scott-i@.-N0-SPAMplease.enm.com> wrote in message
news:3iIlf.36649$6e1.1355@newssvr14.news.prodigy.com...
> Hey Phil, Thank you for your Reply!
>
> So what you are saying is for me to go through the Side of the Meter Panel
> and not the bottom.
>
> And going through the Side I should use a LB Connector.
>
> Hmmm... If the Panel does not have the Cutouts for a Side Connection? I
> have a Knockout kit that will pop the 3" hole, though does it matter where
> it comes in at? Any Code Issues with it coming in on the Side?
>
> Thanks again for your Reply!
Yes there are several code/utility issues that can come into play.
Cutting a hole above bussing requires either a sealing locknut or (my
favorite) a hub.
I do not know if your dealing with a conduit that has to be mechnically
bonded. So I would recommend meyers hub. Better check with the panel
manufacuter and the local authorities before jumping on the band wagon.
Local jurisdictions do have some quirks across the country.
--------snipped--------------
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| Phil Scott 2005-12-07, 11:21 pm |
|
"Scott Townsend" <scott-i@.-N0-SPAMplease.enm.com> wrote in
message
news:3iIlf.36649$6e1.1355@newssvr14.news.prodigy.com...
> Hey Phil, Thank you for your Reply!
>
> So what you are saying is for me to go through the Side of
> the Meter Panel and not the bottom.
You can also arrange to go through the bottom using one or two
LB's, preformed elbows or whatever.. its up to you and whats
fits the situation
And take the other advice, check with your local building
inspectors if there is any doubt or even if not.
Phil Scott
>
> And going through the Side I should use a LB Connector.
>
> Hmmm... If the Panel does not have the Cutouts for a Side
> Connection? I have a Knockout kit that will pop the 3"
> hole, though does it matter where it comes in at? Any Code
> Issues with it coming in on the Side?
>
> Thanks again for your Reply!
>
> Regards,
> Scott<-
> "Phil Scott" <philscott@philscott.net> wrote in message
> news:dn7g5a$jts$1@news.tdl.com...
>
>
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