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Home > Archive > Gardening in England > July 2005 > Weedkiller
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| I have a small patch of land about 1metre wide and 100metres long
alongside my lawn which is full of weeds. Mainly brambles. They have
been all cut down when my neighbour built a new fence. I would like a
weedkiller which can kill them all including the roots and then re seed
with grass (or maybe even a few small shrubs to hide the hideous fence).
it would be good to replant soon and make the most of summer. I could
dig them up but then there is no guarantee that i get them all and it
would be very hard work.
Do you have any ideas, hints or tips?
Many thanks
Mark
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| Dwayne 2005-07-12, 12:25 pm |
| Would plowing or burning be a better idea? Weed killer like you are
suggesting would be quite expensive, and if not used properly, could drift
and get your neighbors plants and trees.
Dwayne
"mark" <not@thisaddress.com> wrote in message
news:dauc02$hn2$1$8300dec7@news.demon.co.uk...
quote:
>I have a small patch of land about 1metre wide and 100metres long alongside
>my lawn which is full of weeds. Mainly brambles. They have been all cut
>down when my neighbour built a new fence. I would like a weedkiller which
>can kill them all including the roots and then re seed with grass (or maybe
>even a few small shrubs to hide the hideous fence). it would be good to
>replant soon and make the most of summer. I could dig them up but then
>there is no guarantee that i get them all and it would be very hard work.
>
> Do you have any ideas, hints or tips?
>
> Many thanks
>
> Mark
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| Plowing would be hard work on such a thin piece of land (1 yard) and
there would be no guarantee of success. If i miss a piece of bramble
root it would be back in no time. Burning may well take his new fence to
the ground. Hmmm, now theres a thought.
I believe there are good weedkillers on the market which will kill the
roots too and can be applied by hand to a very localised area quite
safely. I just dont know which type. Of course I could be completely
wrong I'm pretty new to this.
Mark
Dwayne wrote:
quote:
> Would plowing or burning be a better idea? Weed killer like you are
> suggesting would be quite expensive, and if not used properly, could drift
> and get your neighbors plants and trees.
>
> Dwayne
>
> "mark" <not@thisaddress.com> wrote in message
> news:dauc02$hn2$1$8300dec7@news.demon.co.uk...
>
>
>
>
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| Bob Hobden 2005-07-12, 6:25 pm |
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"mark" wrote
quote:
>I have a small patch of land about 1metre wide and 100metres long alongside
>my lawn which is full of weeds. Mainly brambles. They have been all cut
>down when my neighbour built a new fence. I would like a weedkiller which
>can kill them all including the roots and then re seed with grass (or maybe
>even a few small shrubs to hide the hideous fence). it would be good to
>replant soon and make the most of summer. I could dig them up but then
>there is no guarantee that i get them all and it would be very hard work.
>
> Do you have any ideas, hints or tips?
>
If you keep mowing the strip the brambles etc will die anyway, probably
within this season. Only a few weeds and grass can take constant mowing.
You would then be able to plant your fence hiding plants next spring.
--
Regards
Bob
In Runnymede, 17 miles West of London
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| Graham Orme 2005-07-15, 12:25 pm |
| In message <dauc02$hn2$1$8300dec7@news.demon.co.uk>, mark
<not@thisaddress.com> writes
quote:
>I have a small patch of land about 1metre wide and 100metres long
>alongside my lawn which is full of weeds. Mainly brambles. They have
>been all cut down when my neighbour built a new fence. I would like a
>weedkiller which can kill them all including the roots and then re seed
>with grass (or maybe even a few small shrubs to hide the hideous
>fence). it would be good to replant soon and make the most of summer. I
>could dig them up but then there is no guarantee that i get them all
>and it would be very hard work.
>
>Do you have any ideas, hints or tips?
A glyphosate based weed killer might work. It gets into the plant's
system and even kills the roots. You need to spray it onto the leaves as
it doesn't affect woody growth. It breaks down on contact with soil so
the bed is available for replanting as soon as the weeds have died down.
In my small garden I don't actually spray the stuff at all. I use a
household paintbrush to apply it directly to the weeds I want to kill.
It is great for getting rid of thistles growing in the artichoke bed.
--
Graham
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| Thanks,
there are a couple of nice tips there.
I think what i'll do is get some glyphosate based weed killer do as much
damage as possible with that. then keep mowing it to make sure the ones
I missed stay down too.
hopefully this time next year it will all look really good.
Thanks again
Mark
Graham Orme wrote:
quote:
> In message <dauc02$hn2$1$8300dec7@news.demon.co.uk>, mark
> <not@thisaddress.com> writes
>
>
>
> A glyphosate based weed killer might work. It gets into the plant's
> system and even kills the roots. You need to spray it onto the leaves as
> it doesn't affect woody growth. It breaks down on contact with soil so
> the bed is available for replanting as soon as the weeds have died down.
>
> In my small garden I don't actually spray the stuff at all. I use a
> household paintbrush to apply it directly to the weeds I want to kill.
> It is great for getting rid of thistles growing in the artichoke bed.
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| Jim Althouse 2005-07-24, 9:04 pm |
| Mark
I am not really big on chemical use but I am licenced in Ontario as a
"landscape exterminator", and a "industrial vegetation exterminator",
and the product I would use for this purpose is Roundup, the active
ingredient in it is glyphosate, and I believe it is produced by
Monsanto. This product is absorbed by the green parts of any plants,
therefore you would have to be extremely careful to ensure that no
"drift" goes onto those plants that you do NOT want to kill. You may
have to use some sort of disposable shield such as a piece of old
cardboard to protect the neighboring plants, and you do NOT want to
spray unless it is dead calm! It should be applied in as mist very
lightly so that minute droplets cover the leaves without forming drops,
this way the entire leaf surface is covered. The effect on the plants
will begin to be visible inabout 5 to 7 days when the annuals and tender
perennials begin to look yellow, and the process takes 10 to 14 days to
completely kill the plants. The site may be seeded to grass 2 days
after the spray is applied, as there is no residual effect. The product
breaks down in soil within 48 hours. It can be used to kill woody
plants by using a stronger solution, but will not be absorbed through
the bark. It also usefull to ensure that stumps do not sprout after a
tree has been cut. This involves painting the concentrated form onto
the face of the stump, just behind the bark.
Not being knowledgable of the legality of this product in your area, I
would suggest you check with a farm supply store or a garden center, and
then follow the label directions.
Jim
wrote:
>Would plowing or burning be a better idea? Weed killer like you are
>suggesting would be quite expensive, and if not used properly, could drift
>and get your neighbors plants and trees.
>
>Dwayne
>
>"mark" <not@thisaddress.com> wrote in message
>news:dauc02$hn2$1$8300dec7@news.demon.co.uk...
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