| bapeyton@gmail.com 2007-02-13, 9:25 am |
| This is the general guide line I follow when planting fruit trees.
While I planting my full size trees the first I consider is spacing. I
like to always at least pair trees of the same type. This is done to
have pollen of the same type of tree dominant between the two or more.
This is kind of in agreement with the instruction guarding book about
not planting with mingled seed. I like to plant at a minimum of
sixteen yards apart for the same type and twenty for different. Second
I consider if possible how many trees can I plant by water? The
guarding book says tree planted by the water.
I then dig a six foot hole minimum depth if possible or deeper. Depth
I dig depends the tree and its roots. I like to dig six foot for trees
with shallow root systems and up to twelve for trees with deep. I
shovel the dirt to where the most recent dirt taken out can be put
back in first.
I then burn plant material in the hole. I dug. I do not mulch plant
material in the hole. I do not find any example of master Gardner
mulching in the guarding book. I burn in the hole that the heat of the
fire might destroy any unwanted plant roots, insects, fungi's that
might be present in the soil.
If the area around the hole has a lot of decaying matter in it and
poor drainage or the tree may in the future be near a live stock pen,
I provide wood at a faster rate not allowing the fire to completely
burn the wood. This gives fully burnt chunks of wood mixed with ash.
About two thirds ash to one third fully burnt chunks of wood is about
a desirable reshow. This is to insure the decay will not happen to the
tree around its base.
If the soil is good and does not have a lot of decaying plant matter
in it and good drainage for the base of the tree, I try to let the
wood burn all the way down to ash. I generally always have some small
burnt peaces of wood. To have only ash you would have to burn slowly
and use grating in the hole. Allotted amount of time in which I am
able to burn does not allow me to burn slowly.
I then shovel out the hole but leave some ash in the bottom.
I then fill in the hole again. If I have access to better dirt I
consider using it instead. I mix more ash toward the bottom and
decrease the amount as the hole is filled in. I consider it best to
leave the ground mixed with ash and or burnt chunks of wood for one
year. I consider adding salt if the type of tree will possible
tolerate it. This should help break down the rocks and condition the
soil. Mixing one year ahead may allow higher amounts of ash to be
added to the soil. I keep in mind. More ash will be added with dung.
If roots from distant plants will invade the hole, I consider it is
best to plant the tree same year. I seek to have roots of the tree
dominate the hole and not another.
Sometime before I plant, I shovel out the hole if it was being
prepared with ash a year ahead. If same year I shovel the ashes and
coke back in the same way as the year before method but with human
dung fertilizer and additives.
When shoveling back in the hole, I add some dung and blood.
When making the human dung I add a little water to get the ash and
dung to completely mix. Then age it for awhile I don't use coke or
fully burnt chunks of wood instead of ash to age the dung.
Other items I consider adding depending on the plant and its needs is
hair, ground up bones, milk products, honey, salt if not add year
before, finger nails, ground up livestock hooves, lard and egg shells.
I also consider adding crushed up rocks of various types, lime stone,
and possible considering concrete if lime stone can not be obtained or
quick lime if these two can not be obtained but I might not be able to
call it organic gardening if these two are used.
In poor drainage areas or around live stock pens. I like to elevate
the ground around the base of the tree for good drainage and
protection there. I like to mound the height according to how bad the
drainage around the mound is. I like to mound it at least two feet
high around live stock pens. I then fill in the middle of mound as it
were the rest of the hole. I make at least a six by six square box
around the mound placing at least two rows of stones on behind the
other and each stone directly on top the other. Placing some clay or
lard behind the inner roe if extremely sandy soil. Also placing salt
water soaked, then dried and then oil soaked planks buried in the
ground below the mound for muddy poorly drained soil.
Then I dig out to plant the tree. For transplants with large amount of
roots, If mounded consider placing the tree before the mound is
completely finished.
I then let the trees grow seeking to accomplish the difficult to
obtain, large horizontal branches starting from at least six foot high
from the base of the tree. The gardening book says cursed is everyone
hanging upon a tree.
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