| Me here 2006-05-29, 7:21 am |
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"Jed" <jed.ellerby@biscit.biz> wrote in message
news:1148892275.208021.195870@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> Hi,
>
> I'd like some advice on lawn care.
>
> I have worked hard to try and improve the condition of my lawn over the
> last 2 years since I moved to a new house, with only limited success.
> The lawn was full of moss and yarrow when I moved in and I have
> successfully removed much of this through the use of feed and weed,
> moss killer, scarifying, top dressing an reseeding. However, in
> May/June last year and once more this year I suddenly seem to hit a
> problem where by some 25-35% of the grass (possibly just the original
> grass) appears to die (pale yellow/whitish) for no obvious reason. This
> obviously makes the lawn look in poor condition which is annoying given
> the work put in so far ! So, the question is why should this grass
> suddenly die ?
Sounds like disease in the rootstock.
>
> Here's some more detail:
>
> - Tha lawn is well protected from wind and receives sun for much of the
> day. It is mostly flat apart from a drop between two levels. I never
> water the grass (certainly not needed this year so far).
>
> - In mid April I used feed, weed and moss kill (12% nitrogen). We had
> two mild frosts after this application. However, the results after two
> weeks were great with the whole lawn was looking extremely green and
> growing really well. One issue maybe that I never really new how much
> my spreader was putting down (no instructions) hence I may have over
> done it, or underdone it ... could this be the cause ? I have a Scotts
> Evergreend distributor so if anybody knows what the numbers 1-19
> represent that would be useful 
Scotts are usually very helpful in this respect, email or call them
>
> - I have a mix of weeds in the garden including clover, yarrow,
> germander speedwell plus others. General impression I get is these
> weeds indicate a lack of nutrition in the soil.
>
> - There are areas which show up with Red Thread disease, I suspect more
> so after all this heavy rain. Does this indicate poorly draining soil
> ?
>
> - The soil is chalky but not until 10-12 inches. On top of that is soil
> which I think has an okay pH, although can't recall exact value.
Grass likes an acidic environment
>
> - Newly seeded grass from this year is growing really well. I have used
> standard family hard waring grass mix rather than the finer looking
> grass that was already down (although I guess this may have just been
> the same grass but poor quality).
>
> - The lawn had been poorly maintained for years prior to us moving in.
>
> - I have never aerated the lawn deeply. Those roll spikers never seem
> much good and hand coring for a large lawn is a nightmare !
Hmmmm, Sounds like you need to chat to a locall Golf course Head Greenkeeper
and get a spiker in. Pound notes usually assist :-)
>
> - I mow 1-2 times a week but suspect I have cut too much grass at times
> as I have cut greater than 1/3 off at a time. I have noticed the tops
> of the grass have browned, yet I have sharpened the blade twice already
> this year. Exactly what is 'sharp' for a mower blade ?
As an ex Golf Course mechanic the way to test the sharpness of your machine
if it's a reel mower not a rotary is to have the reel accurately ground by a
local specialist, usually costs around £1.50 per inch width of the reel.
Therefore a 10" width reel would cost £15 etc.
The bottom blade can be removed and "Drawfiled" to produce a sharp edge,of
around 3 degrees backward "rake" ( The angle of the face in relation to the
base of the blade) or ground at the same place.
Unless you are extramely good with an angle grinder don't grind it.
To set the cut correctly you need the right size spanner for the adjusters
(Assuming they need one) and a fag paper.
(Ordinary photocopy paper will do if you want, but the clearance will be
wider)
Using your paper cut into ½" wide strips around 2" long lay the paper in
between the reel and the bottom blade. One peice around 1"- 2" in from each
end.
Gradually bring the reel (or blade if that's what moves, to the reel) toward
the blade until the paper is lightly nipped. Obviously both ends need to be
adjusted accurately and evenly. Take your time.
Gently rotate the reel in opposite to normal direction while doing so.
(Wear gloves as if it nips and then lets go get out the plasters for the
finger you cut !)
When satisfied that both ends are *JUST* nipping the paper you have a
clearance between the reel and blade of around 1½ thousandths of an inch.
Now take out the paper and gently spin the reel (backwards) and listen for
any rubbing sections. There shouln't be any if the grinder has done his job
properly. If it *just* hisses then alls OK.
Hold a peice of paper at 90 degrees to the BASE of the bottom blade in an
upright position between 2 of the reel blades and without cutting your
thumbnail off spin the reel in the normal rotation direction and watch the
paper cut. Try across the entire width of the mower here and there.
If it cuts cleanly you have a perfectly set up mower. If it rips or flattens
without cutting then either you haven't got the adjustment right, there's a
hollow in the reel/blade or it's a blunt mower.
>
> I imagine the issue is general poor quality soil rather than one
> specific issue, if that's the general view what's the best way to get
> the goodness back in. Extra fertilizer applications, more top dressing,
> machine based aeration ?
See above....
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