| Tom Horne, Electrician 2006-06-07, 10:21 pm |
| > Tom Horne, Electrician wrote:
> I have installed at least ten interlock kits complete with flanged inlet
swattsup wrote:[color=darkred]
> Hi Tom:
>
> I've seen you're a big proponent of this interlock and it sounds great.
> Unfortunately, it would require a complete load center replacement for
> me = expensive. A few questions if you don't mind.
>
> 1. Does replacing a load center usually require a licensed electrician
> as it's much simpler than the initial set up. My local code is so
> vague, changing a light bulb could be construed as needing an
> engineering plan and hiring a contractor.
>
> 2. If I need to hire someone - what should the general labor cost
> range be. I can get a good deal on the hardware at Lowe's. (Square-D
> HOMVP9)
>
> 3. How much does the interlock cost? I haven't been able to find any
> distributors locally that carry it except for one who has a $100 min.
> for special orders. Although there is still a couple I need to check
> with.
>
> 4. Would this,
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...emnumber=42163,
> be a viable alternative?
>
> Thanks for your time. Feel free to post this to the NG if you wish - I
> just didn't want to clutter up the thread with my personal questions
> ;-)
Changing out the panel is generally done under permit and inspection.
In the Mid Atlantic area the panel change out would run between $700 and
$1000 US in rough numbers. There are several factors that might raise
the cost.
The interlock kit will cost about seventy dollars retail at an
electrical supply house.
In your case that is a very cost effective solution. Installed cost
should run about four hundred and that beets the heck out of the cost of
a panel change out. Since the switch is NEMA type 3R it can be
installed out doors. The meter would supply the top terminals while the
bottom terminals can be connected to a flanged inlet to except the
regular cord cap of a generator extension cord. The existing meter tail
would be connected to the center terminals of the switch through a knock
out located in the bottom of the enclosure on the same side as the
wiring tray so that none of the conductors from any source have to cross
the load conductors or the conductors of the other source. You do that
to avoid a single failure taking down both sources.
A tactic to consider is to install a feed through lug panel ahead of
your existing main. You buy one that excepts an interlock kit and you
install it between the meter and the existing panel. The parts cost
would be about the same as for the transfer switch and flanged inlet and
like the switch you can install the flanged inlet in the bottom of the
enclosure. The advantage to that approach is you pick up the additional
breaker slots in the new panel. Since those slots are outdoors; unless
you have room for the feed through panel inside; you would use them to
supply your outdoor loads such as a well, air conditioner, out
buildings, and so forth.
--
Tom Horne
"This alternating current stuff is just a fad. It is much too dangerous
for general use." Thomas Alva Edison
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