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Home > Archive > Electrical Engineering > March 2007 > Wiring diagrams UK home circuits
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Wiring diagrams UK home circuits
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| steve@staffbull.net 2006-09-03, 1:25 pm |
| Hello all, does anyone know where I can get some clear wiring diagrams
for a two way switch on a lighting circuit.
I am building an extension and am going to do the first fix myself (
which i beleive i am allowed to do?) and then get someone part P to do
the rest as its a kitchen.
The ring mains will be no issue and the single lighting cct for
upstairs will be no issue.
what i am uncertain of is i need to switch one light in the kitchen
from two locations and another light from just one. I know i'll need a
2G two way switch on one side and a 1G two way on't tother its just the
wiring inbetween em thats a bit flummoxing!!! I'm no lemon ( electronic
engineering) but havent done any domestic installations before.
I take it i will need three and earth between the 2 way switch and
then use the other switch for switching the "one location" light
dunno if I'm making sense!!!
also does anyone know the regs required for depth of channels in walls
for cables and also what is required in the way of conduit/covers for
the cables in the channels?
Thanks in advance
| |
| Andrew Gabriel 2006-09-03, 5:25 pm |
| In article <1157306120.482069.96580@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>,
steve@staffbull.net writes:
> Hello all, does anyone know where I can get some clear wiring diagrams
> for a two way switch on a lighting circuit.
> I am building an extension and am going to do the first fix myself (
> which i beleive i am allowed to do?) and then get someone part P to do
> the rest as its a kitchen.
If you are submitting a building notice or full plans for the
extension which includes the electrical aspects, you can do it
all, and it's the council's responsibility to get it tested
(and they have to pay for the testing if they chose to get it
tested). Getting someone Part P certified only applies if you
are not submitting a building notice or full plans.
> The ring mains will be no issue and the single lighting cct for
> upstairs will be no issue.
>
> what i am uncertain of is i need to switch one light in the kitchen
> from two locations and another light from just one. I know i'll need a
> 2G two way switch on one side and a 1G two way on't tother its just the
> wiring inbetween em thats a bit flummoxing!!! I'm no lemon ( electronic
> engineering) but havent done any domestic installations before.
You really should go out and buy a book on domestic wiring,
and read it before you start. You probably don't yet know
what you don't know. Also, the IEE On-Site Guide is a useful
book to have as a summary of the regs, but it isn't a beginner's
guide.
> I take it i will need three and earth between the 2 way switch and
You need triple and earth between all the switches which switch
the same light. One of the switches also has the twin and earth
connection back to the ceiling rose for the loop-in connection.
> then use the other switch for switching the "one location" light
>
> dunno if I'm making sense!!!
>
> also does anyone know the regs required for depth of channels in walls
> for cables and also what is required in the way of conduit/covers for
> the cables in the channels?
Cables should run horizontally or vertically from a visible wiring
accessory (such as a switch or socket), or within 150mm from a
corner or below a ceiling. There's no minimum depth in this case
nor any requirement for any conduit/covers. However, it is common
to use capping if a wall isn't yet plastered, or oval conduit if
you are cutting a slot into a wall which has already been plastered.
Alternatively, you can run a wire anywhere in the wall if it's at
least 50mm deep or it's protected by earthed metalwork. These
methods are not nortmally used in homes.
Like I said, if you are embarking on a complete wiring up of some
portion of your house, you really should invest in a book on the
subject.
--
Andrew Gabriel
| |
| steve@staffbull.net 2006-09-03, 5:25 pm |
|
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
> In article <1157306120.482069.96580@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>,
> steve@staffbull.net writes:
>
> If you are submitting a building notice or full plans for the
> extension which includes the electrical aspects, you can do it
> all, and it's the council's responsibility to get it tested
> (and they have to pay for the testing if they chose to get it
> tested). Getting someone Part P certified only applies if you
> are not submitting a building notice or full plans.
>
>
> You really should go out and buy a book on domestic wiring,
> and read it before you start. You probably don't yet know
> what you don't know. Also, the IEE On-Site Guide is a useful
> book to have as a summary of the regs, but it isn't a beginner's
> guide.
>
>
> You need triple and earth between all the switches which switch
> the same light. One of the switches also has the twin and earth
> connection back to the ceiling rose for the loop-in connection.
>
>
> Cables should run horizontally or vertically from a visible wiring
> accessory (such as a switch or socket), or within 150mm from a
> corner or below a ceiling. There's no minimum depth in this case
> nor any requirement for any conduit/covers. However, it is common
> to use capping if a wall isn't yet plastered, or oval conduit if
> you are cutting a slot into a wall which has already been plastered.
>
> Alternatively, you can run a wire anywhere in the wall if it's at
> least 50mm deep or it's protected by earthed metalwork. These
> methods are not nortmally used in homes.
>
> Like I said, if you are embarking on a complete wiring up of some
> portion of your house, you really should invest in a book on the
> subject.
>
> --
> Andrew Gabriel
Thanks and will do !! off to Amazon !!! :-)
| |
| steve@staffbull.net 2006-09-03, 5:25 pm |
|
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
> In article <1157306120.482069.96580@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>,
> steve@staffbull.net writes:
>
> If you are submitting a building notice or full plans for the
> extension which includes the electrical aspects, you can do it
> all, and it's the council's responsibility to get it tested
> (and they have to pay for the testing if they chose to get it
> tested). Getting someone Part P certified only applies if you
> are not submitting a building notice or full plans.
>
>
> You really should go out and buy a book on domestic wiring,
> and read it before you start. You probably don't yet know
> what you don't know. Also, the IEE On-Site Guide is a useful
> book to have as a summary of the regs, but it isn't a beginner's
> guide.
>
>
> You need triple and earth between all the switches which switch
> the same light. One of the switches also has the twin and earth
> connection back to the ceiling rose for the loop-in connection.
>
>
> Cables should run horizontally or vertically from a visible wiring
> accessory (such as a switch or socket), or within 150mm from a
> corner or below a ceiling. There's no minimum depth in this case
> nor any requirement for any conduit/covers. However, it is common
> to use capping if a wall isn't yet plastered, or oval conduit if
> you are cutting a slot into a wall which has already been plastered.
>
> Alternatively, you can run a wire anywhere in the wall if it's at
> least 50mm deep or it's protected by earthed metalwork. These
> methods are not nortmally used in homes.
>
> Like I said, if you are embarking on a complete wiring up of some
> portion of your house, you really should invest in a book on the
> subject.
>
> --
> Andrew Gabriel
Book ordered - Collins wiring and lighting, dont know how good but
Collins are generally OK
The extension is on full plans, so I take it I can do all the work
myself. What stage is first fix ? I take it is back boxes in place and
cables laid but not connected?
| |
| Andrew Gabriel 2006-09-03, 8:25 pm |
| In article <1157316697.755747.248830@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
steve@staffbull.net writes:
>
> Book ordered - Collins wiring and lighting, dont know how good but
> Collins are generally OK
> The extension is on full plans, so I take it I can do all the work
> myself. What stage is first fix ? I take it is back boxes in place and
> cables laid but not connected?
Yes -- it's all the work which is done before plastering
and ceilings go up. You should ask your building control
officer which stages he wants to inspect the work (first
fix is a likely candidate).
Something you might not find in Collins is the relevant
bits of Part L of the building regs (conservation of
fuel and power). A certain proportion of the main lighting
in a home must be lit using light fittings which cannot
take bulbs with an efficiency of less than 40 lumens/watt.
This in effect means some main rooms must be lit with
fluorescent lighting fittings that can't take filament
lamps. The building control officer may well check for
this.
--
Andrew Gabriel
| |
| steve@staffbull.net 2006-09-04, 9:25 am |
|
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
> In article <1157316697.755747.248830@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
> steve@staffbull.net writes:
>
> Yes -- it's all the work which is done before plastering
> and ceilings go up. You should ask your building control
> officer which stages he wants to inspect the work (first
> fix is a likely candidate).
>
> Something you might not find in Collins is the relevant
> bits of Part L of the building regs (conservation of
> fuel and power). A certain proportion of the main lighting
> in a home must be lit using light fittings which cannot
> take bulbs with an efficiency of less than 40 lumens/watt.
> This in effect means some main rooms must be lit with
> fluorescent lighting fittings that can't take filament
> lamps. The building control officer may well check for
> this.
>
> --
> Andrew Gabriel
Thanks, yes the plans state the need for energy efficient lighting, I
am using flourescent lights in the main part of the kitchen and under
wall units. I prefer these to the halogens fitted to most kitchens now,
one for the efficiency and two you dont have to replace bulbs every
month !! :-)
| |
| John McLean 2007-03-11, 5:25 pm |
|
<steve@staffbull.net> wrote in message
news:1157306120.482069.96580@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com...
> Hello all, does anyone know where I can get some clear wiring diagrams
> for a two way switch on a lighting circuit.
> I am building an extension and am going to do the first fix myself (
> which i beleive i am allowed to do?) and then get someone part P to do
> the rest as its a kitchen.
>
> The ring mains will be no issue and the single lighting cct for
> upstairs will be no issue.
>
> what i am uncertain of is i need to switch one light in the kitchen
> from two locations and another light from just one. I know i'll need a
> 2G two way switch on one side and a 1G two way on't tother its just the
> wiring inbetween em thats a bit flummoxing!!! I'm no lemon ( electronic
> engineering) but havent done any domestic installations before.
> I take it i will need three and earth between the 2 way switch and
> then use the other switch for switching the "one location" light
>
> dunno if I'm making sense!!!
>
> also does anyone know the regs required for depth of channels in walls
> for cables and also what is required in the way of conduit/covers for
> the cables in the channels?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
This link will give diagrams at the top left of the page: see Sticky: Read
Here First - FAQ......
http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=8
Jaymack
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