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Home > Archive > Electrical Engineering > March 2007 > Thermostat for laser printer fuser temp?
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| Author |
Thermostat for laser printer fuser temp?
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| SparkyGuy 2007-03-07, 9:25 am |
| Fuser quit working on my laser printer. Removed the fuser and found that the
snap-action bimetallic thermostatic switch for the fuser heating element is
open-circuit. I removed it from the fuser and pried it open. Looks brand new.
Reassembled it and it now conducts. Then it opened again. Not reliable enough
to reinstall due to critical job it does. It rides against the cool roller
(not the heated one) and cycles the heating element so as to keep the
temperature constant.
Markings on front:
PW-2N
5214
E150
on rear:
PW-2
PWC
I've googled but only find these in Eastern Europe or China.
Any local suppliers?
Replacement part not available from mfr., and replacement fuser assembly is
not financially viable; it'll cost as much as I paid for the printer.
Thanks.
| |
| N Cook 2007-03-07, 9:25 am |
| SparkyGuy <SparkyGuy@mumcrank.ck> wrote in message
news:0001HW.C213D4680006E07AF01826C8@news.sf.sbcglobal.net...
> Fuser quit working on my laser printer. Removed the fuser and found that
the
> snap-action bimetallic thermostatic switch for the fuser heating element
is
> open-circuit. I removed it from the fuser and pried it open. Looks brand
new.
> Reassembled it and it now conducts. Then it opened again. Not reliable
enough
> to reinstall due to critical job it does. It rides against the cool roller
> (not the heated one) and cycles the heating element so as to keep the
> temperature constant.
>
> Markings on front:
> PW-2N
> 5214
> E150
>
> on rear:
> PW-2
> PWC
>
> I've googled but only find these in Eastern Europe or China.
>
> Any local suppliers?
>
> Replacement part not available from mfr., and replacement fuser assembly
is
> not financially viable; it'll cost as much as I paid for the printer.
>
> Thanks.
>
Are U sure? You could only indirectly control the fuser temp. if there was a
continuous, unvarying , throughput of paper, no stopping and starting.
Is it not just a general output , via air environment, over-temperature cut
out ?
--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/
| |
| PeterD 2007-03-07, 9:25 am |
| On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 10:28:23 GMT, SparkyGuy <SparkyGuy@mumcrank.ck>
wrote:
>Fuser quit working on my laser printer.
Make and model of hte printer, please.
| |
| SparkyGuy 2007-03-07, 1:25 pm |
| > Make and model of hte printer, please.
Samsung SCX-4100
Thanks.
| |
| SparkyGuy 2007-03-07, 1:25 pm |
| > Are U sure? You could only indirectly control the fuser temp. if there was a
> continuous, unvarying , throughput of paper, no stopping and starting.
> Is it not just a general output , via air environment, over-temperature cut
> out ?
You're probably right. Now that I look at the fuser in the daylight (not in
early hours of the morning) I see that there is what must be a small
thermistor resting on the heated roller. *This* is most likely the feedback
for the heater circuit.
The bimetallic switch must be a over-temp circuit breaker, as you say.
And I now see that they both come in contact with the heated roller, not the
pinch roller (I thought the red roller was high-temp stuff...)
But as for replacement, it's all moot, yes? Or do you have a suggestion re. a
work-around?
Thanks.
| |
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| SparkyGuy wrote:
> Fuser quit working on my laser printer. Removed the fuser and found that the
> snap-action bimetallic thermostatic switch for the fuser heating element is
> open-circuit. I removed it from the fuser and pried it open. Looks brand new.
> Reassembled it and it now conducts. Then it opened again. Not reliable enough
> to reinstall due to critical job it does. It rides against the cool roller
> (not the heated one) and cycles the heating element so as to keep the
> temperature constant.
>
> Markings on front:
> PW-2N
> 5214
> E150
I am *guessing* that the E150 indicates the temperature.
Take a look at Mouser part # 802-STO-160 to see if
it will work for you. It is normally closed, and
opens when the emperature rises above 155 to 165 F
Ed
>
> on rear:
> PW-2
> PWC
>
> I've googled but only find these in Eastern Europe or China.
>
> Any local suppliers?
>
> Replacement part not available from mfr., and replacement fuser assembly is
> not financially viable; it'll cost as much as I paid for the printer.
>
> Thanks.
>
| |
| SparkyGuy 2007-03-07, 5:25 pm |
| ehsjr sez:
> I am *guessing* that the E150 indicates the temperature.
> Take a look at Mouser part # 802-STO-160 to see if
> it will work for you. It is normally closed, and
> opens when the emperature rises above 155 to 165 F
>
> Ed
Thanks for your comments, Ed. I saw that one but would like to find a direct
replacement without having to hack off tabs, etc (original has no separate
mounting tabs; the connection tabs are use for screw mounting also).
Also, fuser assembly gets up to high 300f+ so I, too, am guessing at the temp
rating. 150f seems a bit low for being in such proximity to the headed roller
(few tenths of an inch). Maybe it's 150c (302f)? It *is* a Japanese
printer...
The nearest Stancor product is 157f (315c)... too high?
| |
| SparkyGuy 2007-03-07, 5:25 pm |
| > The nearest Stancor product is 157f (315c)... too high?
Er... 157c (315f).
| |
|
| SparkyGuy wrote:
> ehsjr sez:
>
>
>
>
> Thanks for your comments, Ed. I saw that one but would like to find a direct
> replacement without having to hack off tabs, etc (original has no separate
> mounting tabs; the connection tabs are use for screw mounting also).
>
> Also, fuser assembly gets up to high 300f+ so I, too, am guessing at the temp
> rating. 150f seems a bit low for being in such proximity to the headed roller
> (few tenths of an inch). Maybe it's 150c (302f)? It *is* a Japanese
> printer...
>
> The nearest Stancor product is 157f (315c)... too high?
>
I dunno - but I can commiserate with your situation.
When my toner ran low, I went to Staples to buy a
replacement. 70 dollars! But, serendipity - they had
an entire printer (Brother HL-2040) on sale for $110,
and it's faster and better than the old one. (The price
has dropped on them since I bought, so they are now
$120 not on sale.) Anyway, it worked out well for me,
but $70 for the toner still rankles! Interesting
psychology - I didn't spend $70 and if I had I'd
still be unhappy about it. I spent $110 - $40 more,
and I'm pleased as punch. And it's actually more than
$40 extra when you add in the tax.
Maybe the people who set the prices have an ulterior
motive? (How do you make a "frowny face" icon with
smoke coming out of its ears?)
Ed
| |
| SparkyGuy 2007-03-07, 5:25 pm |
| > I dunno - but I can commiserate with your situation.
> When my toner ran low, I went to Staples to buy a
> replacement. 70 dollars!
Yeah, just now I looked on Office Depot for toner and it's $85!! And it's a
*tiny* cartridge. Will see what's on sale when this toner runs out (c:
But what kind of world are we making where the economy pushes us to fill
landfills with this stuff? Maybe total recycle (what with RoHS regulation)
every time toner runs out? Hmm... Are disposable computers (with removable
data cartridge) next? Cars?
| |
| cr500r 2007-03-07, 8:25 pm |
| I use www.inkjetsuperstore.com to get toner for about $32 instead of staples
$80 or so, and it works good.
I won't buy a laser printer without checking to make sure I can get the
toner cheap online somewhere :-)
"ehsjr" <ehsjr@bellatlantic.net> wrote in message
news:EyHHh.20963$tf.18635@trndny06...
>
> I dunno - but I can commiserate with your situation.
> When my toner ran low, I went to Staples to buy a
> replacement. 70 dollars! But, serendipity - they had
> an entire printer (Brother HL-2040) on sale for $110,
> and it's faster and better than the old one. (The price
> has dropped on them since I bought, so they are now
> $120 not on sale.) Anyway, it worked out well for me,
> but $70 for the toner still rankles! Interesting
> psychology - I didn't spend $70 and if I had I'd
> still be unhappy about it. I spent $110 - $40 more,
> and I'm pleased as punch. And it's actually more than
> $40 extra when you add in the tax.
>
> Maybe the people who set the prices have an ulterior
> motive? (How do you make a "frowny face" icon with
> smoke coming out of its ears?)
>
> Ed
| |
|
| If you are in the US or Canada call Premier Parts -
Phone: 800-668-8778 or Fax: 800-668-8037
They are the Samsung dealer.
The rating for the thermo-fuse is rated in Celius so it is 150C.
I've got quite a few Samsung printers I use for parts so I'll look
and see if I have a fuser or the thermister/thermo-fuse.
SparkyGuy wrote:
> Fuser quit working on my laser printer. Removed the fuser and found that the
> snap-action bimetallic thermostatic switch for the fuser heating element is
> open-circuit. I removed it from the fuser and pried it open. Looks brand new.
> Reassembled it and it now conducts. Then it opened again. Not reliable enough
> to reinstall due to critical job it does. It rides against the cool roller
> (not the heated one) and cycles the heating element so as to keep the
> temperature constant.
>
> Markings on front:
> PW-2N
> 5214
> E150
>
> on rear:
> PW-2
> PWC
>
> I've googled but only find these in Eastern Europe or China.
>
> Any local suppliers?
>
> Replacement part not available from mfr., and replacement fuser assembly is
> not financially viable; it'll cost as much as I paid for the printer.
>
> Thanks.
>
| |
| gfretwell@aol.com 2007-03-08, 3:25 am |
| On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 23:05:08 GMT, ehsjr <ehsjr@bellatlantic.net>
wrote:
>But, serendipity - they had
>an entire printer (Brother HL-2040) on sale for $110,
>and it's faster and better than the old one. (The price
>has dropped on them since I bought, so they are now
>$120 not on sale.)
Usually these discount printers come with a toner cartridge that is
about half full so you will be buying toner pretty soon anyway.
Sometimes I believe they sell printers below cost just to create a
market for toner. I am sure that is true for ink jets
| |
| Lionel 2007-03-08, 3:25 am |
| On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 10:28:23 GMT, SparkyGuy <SparkyGuy@mumcrank.ck>
wrote:
>Fuser quit working on my laser printer. Removed the fuser and found that the
>snap-action bimetallic thermostatic switch for the fuser heating element is
>open-circuit. I removed it from the fuser and pried it open. Looks brand new.
>Reassembled it and it now conducts. Then it opened again. Not reliable enough
>to reinstall due to critical job it does. It rides against the cool roller
>(not the heated one) and cycles the heating element so as to keep the
>temperature constant.
>
>Markings on front:
> PW-2N
> 5214
> E150
150c thermal safety fuse. They're usually a single-shot unit, like a
normal fuse, & must be replaced if they fail. If it fails, you need to
find out why the fusing assembly is overheating in the first place.
The most common cause is gunk building up on the thermistor used to
sense the temperature on the hot roller. Look for a thin cable running
to a small module pressed against the hot roller, situated under a
cover. The module will have a heat-proof, non-stick film over it that
is probably covered in cooked toner/dust. The film is quite easy to
tear/cut, so scrape off the gunk with omething wooden or plastic.
Before reassembling, make sure that the module is pressing firmly
against the hot roller. It's also a good idea to check that the
thermister is working correctly: connect an ohmmeter across the
connector & verify that the resistance changes when you heat the
module with hair-dryer. Alternatively, press the sensor against a cup
of boiling water. Do not try to test the thermistor with a flame or
soldering iron, or you will likely damage the internal connections.
--
W "Some people are alive only because it is illegal to kill them."
. | ,. w ,
\|/ \|/ Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------
| |
| SparkyGuy 2007-03-08, 3:25 am |
| Lionel sez:
> 150c thermal safety fuse.
I found most of what you say to be so.
I disassembled the "fuse" and it turns out to be a single pair of contacts
with a bi-metallic dome (think kid's "cricket" sound toy that you pressed
with your thumb) that opens the contacts. When it cools, the contacts are
supposed to close again. Mine didn't seem to do that.
You're right: there was a buildup of gunk (toner) under the thin teflon (or
whatever) strip that separated the thermistor from the roller. Cleaned that
up with a blast of canned air. Luckily it wasn't sticky at all.
I put the thermal switch back together and installed it All seems to work OK
but I won't put the printer into service until I replace the switch.
Where would you look for one?
Thanks.
| |
| SparkyGuy 2007-03-08, 3:25 am |
| Anybody know how do dial down the toner use on this printer? The white space
on the pages seems to be a bit gray, and the build-up of toner under the
thermistor also suggests a slightly "rich mixture".
If it was easy to remove the controller board (or just have access to it) I'd
probably do a little exploring. But the pan that holds the controller PCB is
basically the frame for all the plastic bits to bolt to. It's akin to the
heater core in a car. It is suspected that the heater core is the first part
placed on the assembly line, and the rest of the car is built around it.
Thanks.
| |
| Clint Sharp 2007-03-08, 3:25 am |
| In message <7b9vu2pe5o4h9itck6h9bidpblgacn62jo@4ax.com>,
gfretwell@aol.com writes
>On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 23:05:08 GMT, ehsjr <ehsjr@bellatlantic.net>
>wrote:
>Usually these discount printers come with a toner cartridge that is
>about half full so you will be buying toner pretty soon anyway.
>Sometimes I believe they sell printers below cost just to create a
>market for toner. I am sure that is true for ink jets
ISTR reading somewhere that Xerox's business plan is to sell consumables
and the hardware is only sold to create the market. Xerox used to give
free printers to companies if they signed up to a contract for
consumables. If toner and ink wasn't so profitable why would
manufacturers go to lengths to prevent people cloning or refilling
cartridges.
--
Clint Sharp
| |
| PeterD 2007-03-08, 9:25 am |
| On Thu, 08 Mar 2007 00:57:38 -0500, gfretwell@aol.com wrote:
> I believe they sell printers below cost just to create a
>market for toner. I am sure that is true for ink jets
Kodak marketing: give away the camera and sell the film...
Worked well until there was no film!
| |
| Tzortzakakis Dimitrios 2007-03-08, 9:25 am |
|
? "PeterD" <peter2@hipson.net> ?????? ??? ??????
news:4640v211lt1ocm7g1ngb9nu7ra73ug22np@4ax.com...
> On Thu, 08 Mar 2007 00:57:38 -0500, gfretwell@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Kodak marketing: give away the camera and sell the film...
>
> Worked well until there was no film!
>
Seconded.Iraklion is full of "inkstation" stores, specialized in refilling
(almost) all inkjet cartridges.I never had a laser so don't know if they
refill toner cartridges also.Some come also to the point of taking the empty
cartridges from your office, and bring it back refilled!I read a survey in a
german magazine, stating that inkjet ink is the most expensive fluid, even
more expensive than, say, perfume (Chanel No.5).I have a refill kit for the
z605 lexmark, complete with syringes and vacuum chamber and 100 ml worth of
generic black ink for 15 euros...I don't like very much the idea of filling
landfills with things that could be refurbished, they are already full
enough.So, I gave my old printer (Lexmark z605) to mu godmother when her
failed, and promised to refill her cartridges because 30 euros for 10ml of
black ink is outrageous.My recent acquired canon pixma iP 4300, however, is
excellent for photo printing, can print on printable cd-rs, can print on
both sides of each sheet of paper, has 5 ink (tanks)cartridges, disposable
ink head,(black, bulk black, cyan,magenta, yellow).Cost only 130 euros and
the ink tanks come very reasonably at 15 euros each.The printer *and* the
ink tanks are made in japan, and the tanks have a little chip that prevents
you from refilling them, but also because the printer has the smallest
droplet in the market (1pl I think), after 3 months and at least 200 4X5 "
photos only the magenta tank run out.
--
Tzortzakakis Dimitrios
major in electrical engineering
mechanized infantry reservist
dimtzort AT otenet DOT gr
| |
| Lionel 2007-03-08, 8:25 pm |
| On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 20:53:46 GMT, ehsjr <ehsjr@bellatlantic.net>
wrote:
>SparkyGuy wrote:
>
>I am *guessing* that the E150 indicates the temperature.
>Take a look at Mouser part # 802-STO-160 to see if
>it will work for you. It is normally closed, and
>opens when the emperature rises above 155 to 165 F
The temperature is rated in degrees C, not F, but other than that, it
looks like you have the righ part.
--
W "Some people are alive only because it is illegal to kill them."
. | ,. w ,
\|/ \|/ Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------
| |
| Lionel 2007-03-08, 8:25 pm |
| On Thu, 08 Mar 2007 07:15:56 GMT, SparkyGuy <SparkyGuy@mumcrank.ck>
wrote:
>Lionel sez:
>
>
>I found most of what you say to be so.
<grin> I learned all that when I worked for Canon (who make the laser
engines used in most of the big brandname printers). I used to rebuild
& recondition about half a dozen fuser assemblies a week, so I still
remember most of the details. ;)
>I disassembled the "fuse" and it turns out to be a single pair of contacts
>with a bi-metallic dome (think kid's "cricket" sound toy that you pressed
>with your thumb) that opens the contacts. When it cools, the contacts are
>supposed to close again. Mine didn't seem to do that.
>
>You're right: there was a buildup of gunk (toner) under the thin teflon (or
>whatever) strip that separated the thermistor from the roller. Cleaned that
>up with a blast of canned air. Luckily it wasn't sticky at all.
>
>I put the thermal switch back together and installed it All seems to work OK
>but I won't put the printer into service until I replace the switch.
>
>Where would you look for one?
Good question. When I worked for Canon, we just ordered them from the
spare parts department, but you should be able to find them at laser
spare parts companies that cater for (any of) HP, Apple, Brother &
Canon laser printers.
On the part itself, you should be able to find a Canon part number,
which would be formatted something like: "RG?-????-???". Googling for
that part number (leave off the last '-???' part) should turn up
something. Don't pay more than $10.
Per Ed's earlier post, this looks like a suitable substitute:
<http://www.mouser.com/search/refine...Ntt=802-STO-325>
(It's a shame I tossed my laser printer junk box the last time I moved
house, or I could probably could've given you one.)
Make sure you're very careful about comparing the replacement part to
the original, & in how you mount it. If the original had yellow/orange
film (anti-stick) over it, you'll need to come up with some way of
mounting the new thermoswicth so that it doesn't rub on the roller, or
it'll scrape off the teflon coating, which will leave streaks on your
printouts. The standard method is to bend the mounting bars on the
thermoswitch so that it doesn't quite touch the roller.
>Thanks.
My pleasure, I'm glad I could help.
--
W "Some people are alive only because it is illegal to kill them."
. | ,. w ,
\|/ \|/ Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------
| |
| Lionel 2007-03-08, 8:25 pm |
| On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 21:14:24 GMT, SparkyGuy <SparkyGuy@mumcrank.ck>
wrote:
>ehsjr sez:
>
>
>Thanks for your comments, Ed. I saw that one but would like to find a direct
>replacement without having to hack off tabs, etc (original has no separate
>mounting tabs; the connection tabs are use for screw mounting also).
It should be okay to snip off the mounting tabs with tinsnips or
whatever.
>Also, fuser assembly gets up to high 300f+ so I, too, am guessing at the temp
>rating. 150f seems a bit low for being in such proximity to the headed roller
>(few tenths of an inch). Maybe it's 150c (302f)? It *is* a Japanese
>printer...
That's correct, the original part is rated at 150c.
>The nearest Stancor product is 157f (315c)...
You mean 315F/157c. ;)
> too high?
No, that should be correct. The thermoswitch is intended to trip if
the temperature exceeds the working temperature. The original part
specifies the working temperature, but the Stancor part specifies the
trip temperature.
--
W "Some people are alive only because it is illegal to kill them."
. | ,. w ,
\|/ \|/ Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------
| |
| Lionel 2007-03-08, 8:25 pm |
| On Thu, 08 Mar 2007 00:57:38 -0500, gfretwell@aol.com wrote:
>On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 23:05:08 GMT, ehsjr <ehsjr@bellatlantic.net>
>wrote:
>
>
>Usually these discount printers come with a toner cartridge that is
>about half full so you will be buying toner pretty soon anyway.
>Sometimes I believe they sell printers below cost just to create a
>market for toner. I am sure that is true for ink jets
That's exactly what they do.
--
W "Some people are alive only because it is illegal to kill them."
. | ,. w ,
\|/ \|/ Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------
| |
| Lionel 2007-03-08, 8:25 pm |
| On Thu, 08 Mar 2007 07:39:04 GMT, SparkyGuy <SparkyGuy@mumcrank.ck>
wrote:
>Anybody know how do dial down the toner use on this printer?
It depends very much on the engine model. Look for a green plastic
dial somewhere in the guts (EHT controller assembly, specifically) of
the printer. It should be visible with the lid open, but without
needing to remove any screws. If your printer has an LCD on the
control panel, there should also be a density setting somewhere in the
configuration menu.
OTOH, see below:
> The white space
>on the pages seems to be a bit gray, and the build-up of toner under the
>thermistor also suggests a slightly "rich mixture".
Is the grey on the blank areas consistant in density, or does it
contain very faint ghost images of the previous page? If the latter,
you have a problem with the drum-cleaning system, which is often due
to a bad cartridge. If you're getting streaks down the page, you
likely have dirty corona (high voltage) wires, that're preventing the
drum from getting an even charge across its full width. Another
possibity is dirt/dust bunnies in the window between the
laser-scanning unit & the slot on the top of the toner cartridge. It's
safe to dust out the window & mirror with a clean, dry paintbrush.
>If it was easy to remove the controller board (or just have access to it) I'd
>probably do a little exploring. But the pan that holds the controller PCB is
>basically the frame for all the plastic bits to bolt to. It's akin to the
>heater core in a car. It is suspected that the heater core is the first part
>placed on the assembly line, and the rest of the car is built around it.
That's not the part you need to be looking at anyway. (And on the
bigger laser engines, you access the controller boards from underneath
the printer, not from the top.)
--
W "Some people are alive only because it is illegal to kill them."
. | ,. w ,
\|/ \|/ Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------
| |
| Jim Thompson 2007-03-08, 8:25 pm |
| On Fri, 09 Mar 2007 11:26:11 +1100, Lionel <usenet@imagenoir.com>
wrote:
[snip]
> "Some people are alive only because it is illegal to kill them."
Leftist weenies are alive only because it is illegal to kill them ;-)
...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice 480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |
I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.
| |
| Ecnerwal 2007-03-08, 8:25 pm |
| In article <7b9vu2pe5o4h9itck6h9bidpblgacn62jo@4ax.com>,
gfretwell@aol.com wrote:
> Usually these discount printers come with a toner cartridge that is
> about half full so you will be buying toner pretty soon anyway.
> Sometimes I believe they sell printers below cost just to create a
> market for toner. I am sure that is true for ink jets
It's not only true, they also have a separate "drum cartridge" (rather
than the old system of toner and drum as one). This would be fine,
except that the pricing there is literally insane: I recently purchased
two complete printers, because the price of the complete printer with
drum cartridge and half-full toner cartridge was _less_ than the drum
cartridge alone. I have two complete chassis for spare parts and/or the
junkyard...I'd offer to send the OP a thermostat, but it's clearly a
different printer (this one reads the hot roller) and there are no
visible markings on it at all (I have not fully disassembled the fuser
assembly to see if there are any on the backside of it, but the visible
parts have no markings).
Brother, at least, has also been working to reduce the capacity of their
toners and drums - the 51XX series costs significantly less per page
than the newer 20XX series. Both have the nasty and undesirable behavior
of simply stopping printing when THEY think the toner is low, or the
drum is shot (as does the newer HP we have) rather than advising you
that the toner is low and continuing to print until you don't like the
prints (more evidence that it's all a scam to sell more toner).
It gets worse with color laser printers. Saw one on sale recently for
$300, priced a set of toner, $600, drum was another $200-300...and the
"starter toner", upon investigation, was not even half-full - more like
10%.
--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
| |
| Lionel 2007-03-08, 9:25 pm |
| On Thu, 08 Mar 2007 18:20:58 -0700, Jim Thompson
<To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@My-Web-Site.com> wrote:
>On Fri, 09 Mar 2007 11:26:11 +1100, Lionel <usenet@imagenoir.com>
>wrote:
>
>[snip]
>
>
>Leftist weenies are alive only because it is illegal to kill them ;-)
Mate, if it were legal to kill right-wing weinies, I'd have a /lot/ of
notches on my weapon-of-choice. ;)
--
W "Some people are alive only because it is illegal to kill them."
. | ,. w ,
\|/ \|/ Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------
| |
| SparkyGuy 2007-03-09, 3:25 am |
| > Make sure you're very careful about comparing the replacement part to
> the original, & in how you mount it. If the original had yellow/orange
> film (anti-stick) over it, you'll need to come up with some way of
> mounting the new thermoswicth so that it doesn't rub on the roller, or
> it'll scrape off the teflon coating, which will leave streaks on your
> printouts.
It seems that the thermo shut-off is positioned in close proximity to -- but
not touching -- the heated roller. It's designed to open when the temperature
(within about 1/8 inch of the roller) reaches 150c.
>The standard method is to bend the mounting bars on the
> thermoswitch so that it doesn't quite touch the roller.
Yeah, that's how it is in this one.
Thanks.
| |
| Lionel 2007-03-09, 3:25 am |
| On Fri, 09 Mar 2007 03:28:22 GMT, SparkyGuy <SparkyGuy@mumcrank.ck>
wrote:
>
>It seems that the thermo shut-off is positioned in close proximity to -- but
>not touching -- the heated roller. It's designed to open when the temperature
>(within about 1/8 inch of the roller) reaches 150c.
Close, but not quite correct. It's designed for a hot roller operating
temperature of 150c, & opens if it goes significantly higher than
that. ;)
>
>Yeah, that's how it is in this one.
Good. That version of the design is easier to fix than the version
where the thermal cutout touches the roller, which used a special
cutout that had an indentation in it that matched the shape of the
roller. (We fixed the older version by bending the tabs on a standard
cutout so that they match the roller distance of the newer type.)
>Thanks.
My pleasure. It's nice to know that my hard-earned experience with
laser engines isn't just wasting space in my brain. ;^)
--
W "Some people are alive only because it is illegal to kill them."
. | ,. w ,
\|/ \|/ Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------
| |
|
| Lionel wrote:
> On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 20:53:46 GMT, ehsjr <ehsjr@bellatlantic.net>
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
> The temperature is rated in degrees C, not F, but other than that, it
> looks like you have the righ part.
>
Mouser gives the ratings in both F and C. If he needs 150 C
then the part I posted is wrong. The closest part # would be
802-ST0-335 which is rated 315-335 F, 157-169 C
Ed
| |
| Lionel 2007-03-09, 3:25 am |
| On Fri, 09 Mar 2007 06:03:48 GMT, ehsjr <ehsjr@bellatlantic.net>
wrote:
>Lionel wrote:
>
>Mouser gives the ratings in both F and C. If he needs 150 C
>then the part I posted is wrong. The closest part # would be
>802-ST0-335 which is rated 315-335 F, 157-169 C
Yep, that's the one I suggested after reading your post. ;)
--
W "Some people are alive only because it is illegal to kill them."
. | ,. w ,
\|/ \|/ Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------
| |
|
| Lionel wrote:
> On Fri, 09 Mar 2007 03:28:22 GMT, SparkyGuy <SparkyGuy@mumcrank.ck>
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
> Close, but not quite correct. It's designed for a hot roller operating
> temperature of 150c, & opens if it goes significantly higher than
> that. ;)
>
>
>
>
> Good. That version of the design is easier to fix than the version
> where the thermal cutout touches the roller, which used a special
> cutout that had an indentation in it that matched the shape of the
> roller. (We fixed the older version by bending the tabs on a standard
> cutout so that they match the roller distance of the newer type.)
>
>
>
>
> My pleasure. It's nice to know that my hard-earned experience with
> laser engines isn't just wasting space in my brain. ;^)
>
Not wasted - it is very interesting! I take it that
most of the time this type of failure is caused by
the build up of crud in there? Is it a fool's errand
to try to do preventive maintenance - maybe just as
likely to cause a problem as to prevent it? Also,
when these printers start "smudging" the non-printed
area, is that a sign of impending toner replacement?
The prior printer did that for a long while before
the printing became light & toner needed replacement.
I tried to clean it on a number of occasions, but was
not successful in clearing the problem. So either
I wasn't cleaning the right things, or it wasn't an
issue of cleaning.
Ed
| |
|
| Lionel wrote:
> On Fri, 09 Mar 2007 06:03:48 GMT, ehsjr <ehsjr@bellatlantic.net>
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
> Yep, that's the one I suggested after reading your post. ;)
>
Thanks! Glad you picked up on the error. It would be a bummer
if he put in the wrong part, to say the least. And I've enjoyed
reading & learning from your posts on this. :-)
Ed
| |
| Lionel 2007-03-09, 3:25 am |
| On Fri, 09 Mar 2007 06:24:08 GMT, ehsjr <ehsjr@bellatlantic.net>
wrote:
>Lionel wrote:
>
>Not wasted - it is very interesting!
Thanks. 
> I take it that
>most of the time this type of failure is caused by
>the build up of crud in there? Is it a fool's errand
>to try to do preventive maintenance - maybe just as
>likely to cause a problem as to prevent it?
Not if you know what you're doing, but it's enough of a pain to get at
the relevant part of the fuser that I've never bothered doing it
unless I run into symptoms like the OP's, or am opening up the printer
for some other reason, in which case I'll give it a clean up while I'm
in there.
BTW, a tiny squirt of silicon spray on the woolly, removable wiper on
top of the hot roller for every ream of paper you put through the
printer will greatly extend the life of the teflon coating on the hot
roller, which is hard to obtain, & a pain to replace. It's also good
to clean the accumulated gunk of the separation claws (that 'scrape'
the paper off the hot roller in its way out), because they're prone to
causing paper jams on exit, & can scratch gouges in the teflon
hot-roller coating.
> Also,
>when these printers start "smudging" the non-printed
>area, is that a sign of impending toner replacement?
It totally depends on the cause, of which there several for that
particular symptom. (And there are unrelated problems that cause
symptoms that look very similar to the inexperienced.) But yes, the
most common cause of dirty backgrounds is a cartridge on its last
legs. At a site where they have more than one printer of the same
type, the easiest, quickest way to detect a bad cartridge is to swap
cartridges with another unit, then do a test print from both.
>The prior printer did that for a long while before
>the printing became light & toner needed replacement.
>I tried to clean it on a number of occasions, but was
>not successful in clearing the problem. So either
>I wasn't cleaning the right things, or it wasn't an
>issue of cleaning.
Most likely the latter. If it came good when you put in the new
cartridge, you've got the answer to your question. ;)
--
W "Some people are alive only because it is illegal to kill them."
. | ,. w ,
\|/ \|/ Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------
| |
| Lionel 2007-03-09, 3:25 am |
| On Fri, 09 Mar 2007 06:45:26 GMT, ehsjr <ehsjr@bellatlantic.net>
wrote:
>Thanks! Glad you picked up on the error. It would be a bummer
>if he put in the wrong part, to say the least. And I've enjoyed
>reading & learning from your posts on this. :-)
Thanks again. It's always nice when one's advice is appreciated. ;)
--
W "Some people are alive only because it is illegal to kill them."
. | ,. w ,
\|/ \|/ Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------
| |
| SparkyGuy 2007-03-09, 1:25 pm |
| > I'd offer to send the OP a thermostat, but it's clearly a
> different printer (this one reads the hot roller)
I was mistaken -- the thermal cut-out safety switch in the Samsung 4100 I'm
trying to fix does monitor thet hot roller (I always though the red-coated
one was the hot one... apparently not).
> and there are no
> visible markings on it at all (I have not fully disassembled the fuser
> assembly to see if there are any on the backside of it, but the visible
> parts have no markings)
Well if it looks like this:
<http://img12.picsplace.to/img.php?f...12/1/Thermo.jpg>
(the black end of it with the two mounting/electrical tabs is visible from
the exterior of the fuser) please consider it.
Thanks,
Sparky
| |
|
| Lionel wrote:
> On Fri, 09 Mar 2007 06:24:08 GMT, ehsjr <ehsjr@bellatlantic.net>
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
>
> Not if you know what you're doing, but it's enough of a pain to get at
> the relevant part of the fuser that I've never bothered doing it
> unless I run into symptoms like the OP's, or am opening up the printer
> for some other reason, in which case I'll give it a clean up while I'm
> in there.
> BTW, a tiny squirt of silicon spray on the woolly, removable wiper on
> top of the hot roller for every ream of paper you put through the
> printer will greatly extend the life of the teflon coating on the hot
> roller, which is hard to obtain, & a pain to replace. It's also good
> to clean the accumulated gunk of the separation claws (that 'scrape'
> the paper off the hot roller in its way out), because they're prone to
> causing paper jams on exit, & can scratch gouges in the teflon
> hot-roller coating.
>
>
>
>
> It totally depends on the cause, of which there several for that
> particular symptom. (And there are unrelated problems that cause
> symptoms that look very similar to the inexperienced.) But yes, the
> most common cause of dirty backgrounds is a cartridge on its last
> legs. At a site where they have more than one printer of the same
> type, the easiest, quickest way to detect a bad cartridge is to swap
> cartridges with another unit, then do a test print from both.
>
>
>
>
> Most likely the latter. If it came good when you put in the new
> cartridge, you've got the answer to your question. ;)
>
Lionel,
Thanks. Good info, as usual!
Ed
| |
|
| just gotta love the tricks these marketing moguls use to extract our money
from our wallets.
they are not concerened with conservation, re-use or longevity. they only
seek to enrich themselves by selling us time limited and sales strategic
devices that require extreme cost to service or replenish. the initial
purchase is a come-on
the HP deskjet cartridge, (yes that tiny little ink thing) has probably
generated more profit for HP than most all its gear combined.
no one in business for profit ever cares about resource depletion until
their own kids die from it.. & even then, they figure they will leave THAT
problem for their kids to solve. "if it aint broke,doan figz it"
"ehsjr" <ehsjr@bellatlantic.net> wrote in message
news:EyHHh.20963$tf.18635@trndny06...
> SparkyGuy wrote:
direct[color=darkred]
separate[color=darkred]
temp[color=darkred]
roller[color=darkred]
>
> I dunno - but I can commiserate with your situation.
> When my toner ran low, I went to Staples to buy a
> replacement. 70 dollars! But, serendipity - they had
> an entire printer (Brother HL-2040) on sale for $110,
> and it's faster and better than the old one. (The price
> has dropped on them since I bought, so they are now
> $120 not on sale.) Anyway, it worked out well for me,
> but $70 for the toner still rankles! Interesting
> psychology - I didn't spend $70 and if I had I'd
> still be unhappy about it. I spent $110 - $40 more,
> and I'm pleased as punch. And it's actually more than
> $40 extra when you add in the tax.
>
> Maybe the people who set the prices have an ulterior
> motive? (How do you make a "frowny face" icon with
> smoke coming out of its ears?)
>
> Ed
| |
| Lostgallifreyan 2007-03-19, 3:25 am |
| <hapticz@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
news:8NpLh.1277$rj1.718@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net:
> no one in business for profit ever cares about resource depletion
> until their own kids die from it.. & even then, they figure they will
> leave THAT problem for their kids to solve. "if it aint broke,doan
> figz it"
>
Don't kid yourself. They don't think of it AT ALL. Period. There are two
ways to think things like this, unless you're no longer sane, in which case
all bets are off:
1. You assume it IS relevent to you, and all that you care about, in which
case it nags at you till you eventually do something, ANYTHING, to appease
the nagging sense of doubt, in order to make yourself feel more secure. OR
2. You assume your security is ALREADY assured, thus you don't think of
doing anything to change what others appear to be whinging about as a
perceived threat.
Given that the firms doing this ARE amongst the most secure, financially,
politically, and socially, their arrogance is the cause. This is not mere
ignorance, it is WILLFUL ignorance, the worst and most dangerous kind. It
also the kind that is hardest to forgive, and if resources become low
enough to make a majority of people start to begrudge this and DO something
about the way they choose to spend their money, it will carry on. There are
firms that will sell cheap refills, but these aren't the cure, they DEPEND
on the problem to exist.
Now, as I'm saying my small rant in the presence of electronics engineers,
some of which are considering their own business management as well as
electronics details, I won't try to tell them solutions they probably know
more about themselves, it's enough to point out tht there will be a market
for products that don't fleece the buying public at unacceptable expense.
I do have one small suggestion, I guess. Innovation is the ONLY way a small
firm can get ahead. After all, it;s buying up innovators that makes the big
firms get ahead, right? So, if small firms patent their stuff precisely
instead of in the aggressive way large firms do to try to stop others,
instead of just protecting themselves, this can help, it can prevent a
large firm from muying and burying innovation that threatens their own
wasteful empires, and it can also prevent them from revising history to try
to force their exploitation of your ideas. Patent it under your own name if
you invent it. A firm can't claim your idea even if you thought it up on
their time! Do they OWN your mind? I think not. At least copyright it by
sending yourself signed sealed copies. Do this before it becomes valuable
to someone else.
There may be all kinds of better ideas to erode the tech society that
wastes so heavily, but I'm not inside it enough to think of much more than
I have said here.
| |
| Esther & Fester Bestertester 2007-03-19, 5:25 pm |
| > Small addition: Co-operation.
Yes. Help each other!
[color=darkred]
No, actually they simply use it to amuse themselves until the Messiah comes
(c: I mean, find something you enjoy doing and do it!
And lighten up!
FBt
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