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Author wiring a repeat timer & 2-way solenoid valve for espresso machine
Robert Harmon

2007-05-23, 9:25 am

OK, all the parts are in one place & I'm ready to have a go. I have a Red
Hat 2-way solenoid valve (120/60), an NCC solid state repeat timer
(CKK-10-462 - 24VDC - .1-10 second intervals), a 24 volt power source, & an
abundant supply of 18, 16, & 14 gage wire.

The subject pretty much says it all: HELP: wiring a repeat timer & 2-way
solenoid valve for espresso machine. The NCC timer I bought came without
installation instructions & I've gotten no response from tech support at
NCC. If anyone has a wiring diagram for me it would be greatly appreciated!

--
Robert Harmon
--
http://www.tinyurl.com/mb4uj - My coffee pages.
http://www.tinyurl.com/2tnv87 - My 'Guidelines For Newbies' page.
http://www.tinyurl.com/2cr3e2 - I have things for sale here.


Robert Harmon

2007-05-23, 9:25 am

Here's a link to what I've got so far:
http://home.earthlink.net/~r_harmon/ckk.htm

Robert

"Robert Harmon" <r_h_harmon@Zhotmail.com> wrote in message
news:gHX4i.9403$296.1154@newsread4.news.pas.earthlink.net...
> OK, all the parts are in one place & I'm ready to have a go. I have a Red
> Hat 2-way solenoid valve (120/60), an NCC solid state repeat timer
> (CKK-10-462 - 24VDC - .1-10 second intervals), a 24 volt power source, &
> an abundant supply of 18, 16, & 14 gage wire.
>
> The subject pretty much says it all: HELP: wiring a repeat timer & 2-way
> solenoid valve for espresso machine. The NCC timer I bought came without
> installation instructions & I've gotten no response from tech support at
> NCC. If anyone has a wiring diagram for me it would be greatly
> appreciated!
>
> --
> Robert Harmon
> --
> http://www.tinyurl.com/mb4uj - My coffee pages.
> http://www.tinyurl.com/2tnv87 - My 'Guidelines For Newbies' page.
> http://www.tinyurl.com/2cr3e2 - I have things for sale here.
>
>



operator jay

2007-05-23, 5:25 pm


"Robert Harmon" <r_h_harmon@Zhotmail.com> wrote in message
news:x5Y4i.12665$Ut6.4241@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...
> Here's a link to what I've got so far:
> http://home.earthlink.net/~r_harmon/ckk.htm
>
> Robert
>
> "Robert Harmon" <r_h_harmon@Zhotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:gHX4i.9403$296.1154@newsread4.news.pas.earthlink.net...
>
>


did you try google or the mfr website

http://www.google.ca/search?num=20&...lid+state+timer

http://www.nationalcontrols.com/Pro...Product_Id=4265

http://preview.ametek.com/content-m.../CKK-Series.pdf


Long Ranger

2007-05-23, 5:25 pm


"Robert Harmon" <r_h_harmon@Zhotmail.com> wrote in message
news:x5Y4i.12665$Ut6.4241@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...
> Here's a link to what I've got so far:
> http://home.earthlink.net/~r_harmon/ckk.htm
>
> Robert
>
> "Robert Harmon" <r_h_harmon@Zhotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:gHX4i.9403$296.1154@newsread4.news.pas.earthlink.net...
>
>So your problem is that you have a couple of items that need to be
>integrated that are of different voltages?

If your schematic is the right one for your timer, then connect your 24V to
terminals 2, and 7. With voltage applied to those terminals, your timing
cycle should begin. (I say should begin, because this type of timer often
has a set of terminals for a trigger in place of one of the contact sets.)
My NCC timers all have a schematic of their internals printed on the side,
so if yours looks like the schematic you have posted, then we'll proceed
from there. Connect your white / neutral wire of your 120V ckt. to one lead
of the solenoid. Connect the "hot" side of the 120 volt ckt to terminal 1 of
your timing relay. Connect the "other" lead on the solenoid to terminal 4 on
the timing relay. That is all there is to it. I don't know what your power
sources are for the two voltages, but you may want to fuse the wiring
between the sources and the relay. Give us a bit more info on the supply and
if it isn't already appropriately fused you probably want to do that. Use
two different color sets on your wire to keep the visual identity of the two
voltages separated. By the way, do not make that connection between terminal
one and two that is shown on your wiring diagram. That won't work with two
different voltages.

FYI: Your relay has the most common layout of an octal relay. The basic
function of the terminals is that terminals 2 and 7 operate the coil, (and
in your case the timing circuit for the coil). The coil operates two "form
C" switches, which operate between terminals 1, 3, and 4 for one set, and
between 8, 5 and 6 for the second set. As your schematic shows, terminal one
is the common terminal, and is open to terminal 3 when the relay is not
energized, and closed to terminal 4. When the relay is energized, 1 connects
with 3 and disconnects from 4. Your relay alternates between these states
while it is energized.The other set operates at the same time, but you won't
be using it. If for any reason you want the load to be on while the relay is
de-energized, and to alternate off then on when energized, then move your
wire from terminal 3 to terminal 4.














Robert Harmon

2007-05-23, 8:25 pm

Yeah, I tried Google searches like yours, but they only lead to the spec
sheet & not the manual.

Thanks anyway!
--
Robert (Please don't buy from folks that post advertisements in this
newsgroup!) Harmon
--
http://www.tinyurl.com/mb4uj - My coffee pages.
http://www.tinyurl.com/2tnv87 - My 'Guidelines For Newbies' page.
http://www.tinyurl.com/2cr3e2 - I have things for sale here.

"operator jay" <none@none.none> wrote in message
news:eB25i.172614$jt2.166074@newsfe13.lga...

>
> did you try google or the mfr website
>
> http://www.google.ca/search?num=20&...lid+state+timer
>
> http://www.nationalcontrols.com/Pro...Product_Id=4265
>
> http://preview.ametek.com/content-m.../CKK-Series.pdf
>
>



Robert Harmon

2007-05-23, 8:25 pm

See, that's what I love about Usenet - folks are always there to lend a
helping hand! I admit I slept through the electronics course prerequisites
during my underclass years at A&M. You are the best!

They tried to learn me good, but I was too stupid.
--
Robert (Please don't buy from folks that post advertisements in this
newsgroup!) Harmon
--
http://www.tinyurl.com/mb4uj - My coffee pages.
http://www.tinyurl.com/2tnv87 - My 'Guidelines For Newbies' page.
http://www.tinyurl.com/2cr3e2 - I have things for sale here.

Remove "ZED" from address if replying by email.
"Long Ranger" <worpylorp@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:jY25i.12773$Ut6.1067@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...
> If your schematic is the right one for your timer, then connect your 24V
> to terminals 2, and 7. With voltage applied to those terminals, your
> timing cycle should begin. (I say should begin, because this type of timer
> often has a set of terminals for a trigger in place of one of the contact
> sets.) My NCC timers all have a schematic of their internals printed on
> the side, so if yours looks like the schematic you have posted, then we'll
> proceed from there. Connect your white / neutral wire of your 120V ckt. to
> one lead of the solenoid. Connect the "hot" side of the 120 volt ckt to
> terminal 1 of your timing relay. Connect the "other" lead on the solenoid
> to terminal 4 on the timing relay. That is all there is to it. I don't
> know what your power sources are for the two voltages, but you may want to
> fuse the wiring between the sources and the relay. Give us a bit more info
> on the supply and if it isn't already appropriately fused you probably
> want to do that. Use two different color sets on your wire to keep the
> visual identity of the two voltages separated. By the way, do not make
> that connection between terminal one and two that is shown on your wiring
> diagram. That won't work with two different voltages.
>
> FYI: Your relay has the most common layout of an octal relay. The basic
> function of the terminals is that terminals 2 and 7 operate the coil, (and
> in your case the timing circuit for the coil). The coil operates two "form
> C" switches, which operate between terminals 1, 3, and 4 for one set, and
> between 8, 5 and 6 for the second set. As your schematic shows, terminal
> one is the common terminal, and is open to terminal 3 when the relay is
> not energized, and closed to terminal 4. When the relay is energized, 1
> connects with 3 and disconnects from 4. Your relay alternates between
> these states while it is energized.The other set operates at the same
> time, but you won't be using it. If for any reason you want the load to be
> on while the relay is de-energized, and to alternate off then on when
> energized, then move your wire from terminal 3 to terminal 4.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>



Robert Harmon

2007-05-24, 3:25 am

Pardon the ASCII art - it keeps me from having to attach binaries.

------------------------
Connect your white / neutral wire of your 120V ckt. to one lead of the
solenoid.

Connect the "hot" side of the 120 volt ckt to terminal 1 of your timing
relay.

Connect the "other" lead on the solenoid to terminal 4 on the timing relay.

That is all there is to it.
------------------------
OK, so what I have is this;

neutral/white line-in lead 'a' connects to solenoid lead 'c'

hot/black line-in lead 'b' connects to pin '1'

solenoid lead 'd' connects to pin '4'

line-in leads 'e' & 'f' connects to pins '2' & '7'

Is that all? If so then as usual I over-thought this.

------------------------

line-in 120VAC solenoid Red-Hat 2-way valve 120/60 6.5 watts line-in
24VDC
| | | |
| |
| | | |
| |
| | | |
| |
a b c d
e f



NCC solid state timer CKK-10-462 24VDC

* *
4 5
* 3 6 *


* 2 7 *

1 8
* *

------------------------


ehsjr

2007-05-24, 1:25 pm

Robert Harmon wrote:
> Pardon the ASCII art - it keeps me from having to attach binaries.
>
> ------------------------
> Connect your white / neutral wire of your 120V ckt. to one lead of the
> solenoid.
>
> Connect the "hot" side of the 120 volt ckt to terminal 1 of your timing
> relay.
>
> Connect the "other" lead on the solenoid to terminal 4 on the timing relay.
>
> That is all there is to it.
> ------------------------
> OK, so what I have is this;
>
> neutral/white line-in lead 'a' connects to solenoid lead 'c'
>
> hot/black line-in lead 'b' connects to pin '1'
>
> solenoid lead 'd' connects to pin '4'
>
> line-in leads 'e' & 'f' connects to pins '2' & '7'
>
> Is that all? If so then as usual I over-thought this.


Your description sounds correct.

Here's a different diagram - your diagram below appears
scrambled, so this one might be better.


+-------[Solenoid]--------+
| |
| |
| *4 5* |
| |
+---*3 6* |
|
+24VDC----*2 7*---Gnd |
|
120VAC Line --------*1 8* |
|
120VAC Neutral -----------------------+


Gnd is the negative side of the 24VDC supply. There
should be switch and a fuse in the 120VAC line.

Ed

>
> ------------------------
>
> line-in 120VAC solenoid Red-Hat 2-way valve 120/60 6.5 watts line-in
> 24VDC
> | | | |
> | |
> | | | |
> | |
> | | | |
> | |
> a b c d
> e f
>
>
>
> NCC solid state timer CKK-10-462 24VDC
>
> * *
> 4 5
> * 3 6 *
>
>
> * 2 7 *
>
> 1 8
> * *
>
> ------------------------
>
>

LinkBot





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