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| Author |
House Wiring AWG Gage For Code Compliance ?
|
|
| Robert11 2008-02-08, 1:25 pm |
| Hello,
I read somewhere recently that the (new) National Electrical Code mandates
NM WG 12 gage for all
new indoor house wiring. Was always 14 gage in the past, of course for the
typical 15 amp outlet, etc., runs.
Is it true that it is now AWG 12 for "everything" indoors to be Code
compliant ?
Thanks,
Bob
| |
| gfretwell@aol.com 2008-02-08, 8:25 pm |
| On Fri, 8 Feb 2008 11:39:23 -0500, "Robert11" <rgsros@notme.com>
wrote:
>Hello,
>
>I read somewhere recently that the (new) National Electrical Code mandates
>NM WG 12 gage for all
>new indoor house wiring. Was always 14 gage in the past, of course for the
>typical 15 amp outlet, etc., runs.
>
>Is it true that it is now AWG 12 for "everything" indoors to be Code
>compliant ?
>
>Thanks,
>Bob
>
Not true at all. Some local yahoos have done that but not NFPA
| |
| phil-news-nospam@ipal.net 2008-02-10, 3:25 am |
| On Fri, 8 Feb 2008 11:39:23 -0500 Robert11 <rgsros@notme.com> wrote:
| I read somewhere recently that the (new) National Electrical Code mandates
| NM WG 12 gage for all
| new indoor house wiring. Was always 14 gage in the past, of course for the
| typical 15 amp outlet, etc., runs.
|
| Is it true that it is now AWG 12 for "everything" indoors to be Code
| compliant ?
I've not heard of such a thing.
That would have been the size for aluminum. But we are past that idiocy.
Many circuits now are required to be 20 amp instead of 15 amp, so those
would need that wire size, anyway. Some AHJs may require everything else
to be 20 amp as well. Where are you located?
Some AHJs require MC instead of NM. Chicago is one of them.
--
|---------------------------------------/----------------------------------|
| Phil Howard KA9WGN (ka9wgn.ham.org) / Do not send to the address below |
| first name lower case at ipal.net / spamtrap-2008-02-10-0111@ipal.net |
|------------------------------------/-------------------------------------|
| |
| Ben Miller 2008-02-10, 5:25 pm |
| phil-news-nospam@ipal.net wrote:
> On Fri, 8 Feb 2008 11:39:23 -0500 Robert11 <rgsros@notme.com> wrote:
>
>
> Some AHJs require MC instead of NM. Chicago is one of them.
>
Not only the city itself, but most of the suburbs also. Funny thing, though,
you can go to Home Depot and buy rolls of NM, so I am sure many
do-it-yourselfers are using it anyhow.
Ben Miller
--
Benjamin D Miller, PE
www.bmillerengineering.com
| |
| Ben Miller 2008-02-10, 5:25 pm |
| Robert11 wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I read somewhere recently that the (new) National Electrical Code
> mandates NM WG 12 gage for all
> new indoor house wiring. Was always 14 gage in the past, of course
> for the typical 15 amp outlet, etc., runs.
>
> Is it true that it is now AWG 12 for "everything" indoors to be Code
> compliant ?
>
> Thanks,
> Bob
Nope. I don't know what you read, but it is not true. 14 AWG is acceptable
for a 15A circuit. There are, however, specific cases where the Code
requires 20A circuits, and therefore 12AWG. Maybe that is what it was
talking about.
Ben Miller
--
Benjamin D Miller, PE
www.bmillerengineering.com
| |
| gfretwell@aol.com 2008-02-10, 5:25 pm |
| On Sun, 10 Feb 2008 13:38:05 -0600, "Ben Miller" <Ben@somewhere>
wrote:
>Nope. I don't know what you read, but it is not true. 14 AWG is acceptable
>for a 15A circuit. There are, however, specific cases where the Code
>requires 20A circuits, and therefore 12AWG. Maybe that is what it was
>talking about.
Actually there were some local AHJs who went on a 12 ga only binge for
a while. The area up around Orlando was that way until the state put a
stop to local addendums to the NEC (and other codes). Now there is a
state wide building code. It sure makes it easier to build than when
every little municipality had different rules. Now if they could just
get some agreement from inspectors about what the NEC really says.
| |
|
| In article <g9tuq3501j5fjlcmff59bvin8olcm6g7vk@4ax.com>,
gfretwell@aol.com says...
> On Sun, 10 Feb 2008 13:38:05 -0600, "Ben Miller" <Ben@somewhere>
> wrote:
>
>
> Actually there were some local AHJs who went on a 12 ga only binge for
> a while. The area up around Orlando was that way until the state put a
> stop to local addendums to the NEC (and other codes). Now there is a
> state wide building code. It sure makes it easier to build than when
> every little municipality had different rules. Now if they could just
> get some agreement from inspectors about what the NEC really says.
Building inspectors seem to be like HOA board members; each thinks
he rules the world. I had one that cost me a couple of thousand on
a garage twenty or so years ago. Every time I went to the lumber
yard to order stuff they'd ask "where the &*$% do you live?". I'd
tell them and they'd reply, "should have known". The stovebolt
never passed the inspectors test either.
--
Keith
| |
|
| From Robert11)
Hello, I read somewhere recently that the (new) National Electrical Code
mandates NM WG 12 gage for all new indoor house wiring. Was always 14
gage in the past, of course for the typical 15 amp outlet, etc., runs.
Is it true that it is now AWG 12 for "everything" indoors to be Code
compliant ?
Thanks,
Bob
-------------------------
Codes are good in many cases and are meant to maintain safety, & certain
uniformity in a given locale., but Good Science trumps any AHJs chimera
in many cases - In my studies & experience the use of 12 gage wire for
15 & 20 amp circuits throughout a dwelling is a norm, with the exception
of 10 & 8 awg wires used in laundry & kitchen range circuits.
14 gage was & can be used for 15 amp lighting circuits {{Only}} and, it
could be fed from a 12 awg 15 amp circuit.
These uses above are NEC approved but, some locales have eliminated the
use of no. 14 altogether - using no.12 for all lighting circuits &
certain 15Amp circuits instead, but, not "Everything" - the use of 10
awg for any 20A circuit is common in new work....
*** However: It is possible that since light fixtures tend be be
frequently exchanged for newer models & fans, 12 awg may now be the
proper Code Compliant application, since they withstand more juice &
physical handling than no. 14 wires do.
This was all good in the 2005 NEC - I'll have to get my hands on the
2008 NEC to see if 14 awg has been eliminated completely from housing
circuits.
Roy Q.T. ~ US/NCU ~ E.E. Technician
[have tools, will travel]
| |
| gfretwell@aol.com 2008-02-11, 5:25 pm |
| On Mon, 11 Feb 2008 14:42:02 -0500, ROYKEY@webtv.net (Roy) wrote:
>FromRobert11)
>Hello, I read somewhere recently that the (new) National Electrical Code
>mandates NM WG 12 gage for all new indoor house wiring. Was always 14
>gage in the past, of course for the typical 15 amp outlet, etc., runs.
>Is it true that it is now AWG 12 for "everything" indoors to be Code
>compliant ?
>Thanks,
>Bob
>-------------------------
>Codes are good in many cases and are meant to maintain safety, & certain
>uniformity in a given locale., but Good Science trumps any AHJs chimera
>in many cases - In my studies & experience the use of 12 gage wire for
>15 & 20 amp circuits throughout a dwelling is a norm, with the exception
>of 10 & 8 awg wires used in laundry & kitchen range circuits.
>
>14 gage was & can be used for 15 amp lighting circuits {{Only}} and, it
>could be fed from a 12 awg 15 amp circuit.
>
>These uses above are NEC approved but, some locales have eliminated the
>use of no. 14 altogether - using no.12 for all lighting circuits &
>certain 15Amp circuits instead, but, not "Everything" - the use of 10
>awg for any 20A circuit is common in new work....
>
>*** However: It is possible that since light fixtures tend be be
>frequently exchanged for newer models & fans, 12 awg may now be the
>proper Code Compliant application, since they withstand more juice &
>physical handling than no. 14 wires do.
>
>
>This was all good in the 2005 NEC - I'll have to get my hands on the
>2008 NEC to see if 14 awg has been eliminated completely from housing
>circuits.
>
>Roy Q.T. ~ US/NCU ~ E.E. Technician
> [have tools, will travel]
310.16 did not change nor did 210.19(A)(4)
The minimum wire size is still 14 gauge
| |
| phil-news-nospam@ipal.net 2008-02-11, 5:25 pm |
| On Mon, 11 Feb 2008 14:42:02 -0500 Roy <ROYKEY@webtv.net> wrote:
| FromRobert11)
| Hello, I read somewhere recently that the (new) National Electrical Code
| mandates NM WG 12 gage for all new indoor house wiring. Was always 14
| gage in the past, of course for the typical 15 amp outlet, etc., runs.
| Is it true that it is now AWG 12 for "everything" indoors to be Code
| compliant ?
| Thanks,
| Bob
| -------------------------
| Codes are good in many cases and are meant to maintain safety, & certain
| uniformity in a given locale., but Good Science trumps any AHJs chimera
| in many cases - In my studies & experience the use of 12 gage wire for
| 15 & 20 amp circuits throughout a dwelling is a norm, with the exception
| of 10 & 8 awg wires used in laundry & kitchen range circuits.
Do you mean laundry _dryer_ circuit for 10 awg? I see no reason to
_require_ 10 awg on _other_ circuits in the laundry room that are
protected with a 15 or 20 amp OCPD.
FYI, the kitchen range may need 6 awg.
| 14 gage was & can be used for 15 amp lighting circuits {{Only}} and, it
| could be fed from a 12 awg 15 amp circuit.
Why the "only"? Why is 14 awg unsafe for general purpose outlets that
are still protected by a 15 amp breaker?
| These uses above are NEC approved but, some locales have eliminated the
| use of no. 14 altogether - using no.12 for all lighting circuits &
| certain 15Amp circuits instead, but, not "Everything" - the use of 10
| awg for any 20A circuit is common in new work....
10 awg is really hard to handle. I've never heard of such things even
being done for anything less than a 30 amp circuit.
| *** However: It is possible that since light fixtures tend be be
| frequently exchanged for newer models & fans, 12 awg may now be the
| proper Code Compliant application, since they withstand more juice &
| physical handling than no. 14 wires do.
I understand why it is a 20 amp circuit could be drawing more current
than a 15 amp circuit. But I'm not coming up with any understanding
of why a 15 amp circuit would draw as much current as a 20 amp circuit.
Just how much a circuit would draw depends on how many outlets, be they
cord-and-plug general purpose, or lighting. In one case having a dozen
outlets on one circuit could readily expect more current over an average
of time than a circuit with just two outlets.
| This was all good in the 2005 NEC - I'll have to get my hands on the
| 2008 NEC to see if 14 awg has been eliminated completely from housing
| circuits.
This is the first I've heard of 14 awg possibly being eliminated. NEC 2008
has been discussed a lot and I've not heard it. I have heard the 42 circuit
limit has been dropped (it may have made sense decades ago, but I do not see
a reason for such a limit today ... assuming wiring density is kept at a
reasonable level).
--
|---------------------------------------/----------------------------------|
| Phil Howard KA9WGN (ka9wgn.ham.org) / Do not send to the address below |
| first name lower case at ipal.net / spamtrap-2008-02-11-1654@ipal.net |
|------------------------------------/-------------------------------------|
| |
|
| Phil - it doesn't matter what we think if the AHJ has some reason why a
certain wire size should be used instead of another, it's his
call.....Right....& if you can't convince him your sytem is as sound &
lasting., well ...... ? I call it as I see it., 10awg for 20-30A, 12awg
for 15-20A depending on the circuits usage or most likely uses &
projected modifications.
It's rare to find 6awg in any household/apartment kitchen range here in
nyc., 8awg more likely - Maybe in commercial applications., ranges use
6awg., It makes for a good riser too., so if the panel is wired with a
number 6awg you will have to use an 8awg for this theoretical
circuit......{*}
so'., number 14 awg is still good to wire 15A light fixtures., it's
really not what I'd use for a circuit with any motorized
appliance.....or where any kind of heating element might come into
play...Plus, I wouldn't homerun it from the panel., mostly I'd use it to
tap off a nearby no. 12.., I'd never use it to wire a receptacle/outlet
unless I new that what was going to be plugged into it fell well under
the wires ampacity....
But, that's just me., you go on ahead and do it your way, if that suits
you - I've never had a AHJ or Inspector come after me with a complaint
or a notice of violation., and believe me I'm available }
Roy Q.T. ~ US/NCU ~ E.E. Technician
[have tools, will travel]
| |
| phil-news-nospam@ipal.net 2008-02-13, 3:25 am |
| On Tue, 12 Feb 2008 19:26:21 -0500 Roy <ROYKEY@webtv.net> wrote:
| Phil - it doesn't matter what we think if the AHJ has some reason why a
| certain wire size should be used instead of another, it's his
| call.....Right....& if you can't convince him your sytem is as sound &
| lasting., well ...... ? I call it as I see it., 10awg for 20-30A, 12awg
| for 15-20A depending on the circuits usage or most likely uses &
| projected modifications.
Not always. The term "AHJ" isn't just an individual; it includes all the
local rules and legislations that adopt and possibly modify the NEC. One
individual inspector can be wrong. Or maybe he can be right. But there
needs to be something in writing for things like "tear out all that 14 AWG
and put 12 AWG in". Normally individual inspectors are not consulted on
work to begin. But local codes are. If the local code says 12 AWG on a
15 amp circuit, then so be it. If that is not the case but an individual
inspector demands it, then he can expect appeals.
| It's rare to find 6awg in any household/apartment kitchen range here in
| nyc., 8awg more likely - Maybe in commercial applications., ranges use
| 6awg., It makes for a good riser too., so if the panel is wired with a
| number 6awg you will have to use an 8awg for this theoretical
| circuit......{*}
That depends on the temperature rating of the cable, and the ambient
temperation correction factor at the bottom of table 310.16. Wiring
in an attic has to consider the ambient temperature of that attic,
which can easily exceed 40C and thus have correction factors of 0.82,
0.88, or 0.91, or even lower. If your cable is rated 90C and the
ambient temperature does not exceed 40C then you can do 8 AWG on a
50 amp range. If it is rated 75C, you can't go above 30C ambient
to us 8 AWG on a 50 amp range. If it is rated 60C, you need to go
to 6 AWG regardless.
| so'., number 14 awg is still good to wire 15A light fixtures., it's
| really not what I'd use for a circuit with any motorized
| appliance.....or where any kind of heating element might come into
| play...Plus, I wouldn't homerun it from the panel., mostly I'd use it to
| tap off a nearby no. 12.., I'd never use it to wire a receptacle/outlet
| unless I new that what was going to be plugged into it fell well under
| the wires ampacity....
|
| But, that's just me., you go on ahead and do it your way, if that suits
| you - I've never had a AHJ or Inspector come after me with a complaint
| or a notice of violation., and believe me I'm available }
Actually, I would use 12 AWG for the 15 amp circuit. I'm just arguing
that I've never heard of it as being required by any AHJ, other than it
being in a heat intensive situation. 10 AWG is pushing it as that is
hard to work with. But maybe I'd go with stranged 10 AWG. I am more
inclined to have more separated circuits, such as each duplex outlet in
my kitchen being on its own 20 amp circuit, and those might well get
the 10 AWG treatment (especially so if run in a hot attic). I expect to
have individual separate ovens and cooktops, so I may not have anything
larger than 10 AWG going to the kitchen.
--
|---------------------------------------/----------------------------------|
| Phil Howard KA9WGN (ka9wgn.ham.org) / Do not send to the address below |
| first name lower case at ipal.net / spamtrap-2008-02-12-2235@ipal.net |
|------------------------------------/-------------------------------------|
| |
| gfretwell@aol.com 2008-02-13, 3:25 am |
| On 13 Feb 2008 05:27:45 GMT, phil-news-nospam@ipal.net wrote:
>Not always. The term "AHJ" isn't just an individual; it includes all the
>local rules and legislations that adopt and possibly modify the NEC.
The reason the term is so ambiguous is because all "jursidictions" are
not created equal. If you were talking about the city of Chicago or
New York there will be a whole bureaucracy built up around the
building process that probably includes the city legislature or at
least a committee of that body. When you are talking about a small
town the AHJ really might be one guy ... who also does most if not all
of the inspections.
When you get out in the boonies they might not even have residential
inspections and permits.
| |
|
| From: phil-news-nospam@ipal.net
On Tue, 12 Feb 2008 19:26:21 -0500 Roy <ROYKEY@webtv.net> wrote:
| Phil - it doesn't matter what we think if the AHJ has some reason why
a | certain wire size should be used instead of another, it's his |
call.....Right....& if you can't convince him your sytem is as sound & |
lasting., well ...... ? I call it as I see it., 10awg for 20-30A, 12awg
| for 15-20A depending on the circuits usage or most likely uses & |
projected modifications.
Not always. The term "AHJ" isn't just an individual; it includes all the
local rules and legislations that adopt and possibly modify the NEC. One
individual inspector can be wrong. Or maybe he can be right. But there
needs to be something in writing for things like "tear out all that 14
AWG and put 12 AWG in". Normally individual inspectors are not consulted
on work to begin. But local codes are. If the local code says 12 AWG on
a 15 amp circuit, then so be it. If that is not the case but an
individual inspector demands it, then he can expect appeals.
| It's rare to find 6awg in any household/apartment kitchen range here
in | nyc., 8awg more likely - Maybe in commercial applications., ranges
use | 6awg., It makes for a good riser too., so if the panel is wired
with a | number 6awg you will have to use an 8awg for this theoretical |
circuit......{*}
That depends on the temperature rating of the cable, and the ambient
temperation correction factor at the bottom of table 310.16. Wiring in
an attic has to consider the ambient temperature of that attic, which
can easily exceed 40C and thus have correction factors of 0.82, 0.88, or
0.91, or even lower. If your cable is rated 90C and the ambient
temperature does not exceed 40C then you can do 8 AWG on a 50 amp range.
If it is rated 75C, you can't go above 30C ambient to us 8 AWG on a 50
amp range. If it is rated 60C, you need to go to 6 AWG regardless.
| so'., number 14 awg is still good to wire 15A light fixtures., it's |
really not what I'd use for a circuit with any motorized |
appliance.....or where any kind of heating element might come into |
play...Plus, I wouldn't homerun it from the panel., mostly I'd use it to
| tap off a nearby no. 12.., I'd never use it to wire a
receptacle/outlet | unless I new that what was going to be plugged into
it fell well under | the wires ampacity....
|
| But, that's just me., you go on ahead and do it your way, if that
suits | you - I've never had a AHJ or Inspector come after me with a
complaint | or a notice of violation., and believe me I'm available }
Actually, I would use 12 AWG for the 15 amp circuit. I'm just arguing
that I've never heard of it as being required by any AHJ, other than it
being in a heat intensive situation. 10 AWG is pushing it as that is
hard to work with. But maybe I'd go with stranged 10 AWG. I am more
inclined to have more separated circuits, such as each duplex outlet in
my kitchen being on its own 20 amp circuit, and those might well get the
10 AWG treatment (especially so if run in a hot attic). I expect to have
individual separate ovens and cooktops, so I may not have anything
larger than 10 AWG going to the kitchen.
--
|---------------------------------------/-----
| Phil Howard KA9WGN (ka9wgn.ham.org) / Do not send to the address below
|
| first name lower case at ipal.net =A0 /
spamtrap-2008-02-12-2235@ipal.net |
|------------------------------------/--------
I totally agree with your comments on wiring practices here., I'd use #
12 too, but I happen to have some stranded # 14 and if a customer wants
a new lighting fixture adjacent to an excisiting fixture I usually go
with that....and I've seen plenty kitchen range circuits with 10awg in
my days.
Another thing is customer perks & peeves., sometimes you have to give
them what they want - even if it's overkill on a safety matter., if it's
generally safe & sound I'll do it - But......
I'll never put an overrated circuit breaker on a circuit for a given
appliance - as was the case of a 30Amp box type hot water heater in
which someone had used a 40A circuit breaker, whomever installed it
trampled around the panel so badly that when he was through the ladies
lights were flickering - which got her on alert - troubled & pissed off
with the installer I was given the call from an old school chum & mutual
friend., I not only corrected the problem but replaced the cb with a
30A/220V breaker she had in her "electrical junkbox" as prescribed by
the maker of the appliance..
*** without getting too technical - an oversized CB overestimates the
current capabilities of a device or appliance and if it should fail the
rated materials used in the device/appliance could suffer severe damage
before tripping the breaker ***
She said next time I'm in town, no work for me, just partying };) poor
sweety had been dealing with some real duds., I had to align several
electrical things that were carelessly installed without any asthetic
considerations what-so-ever & even through-in a handymans touch here &
there just cause I liked her....What?., she was cute & all alone on her
own};) plus she payed me handsomely as well...
Work per hour, no materials were needed =3D 50$
The smile on her face & the satisfaction within =3D Priceless
Roy Q.T. ~ US/NCU ~ E.E. Technician
[have tools, will travel]
| |
| phil-news-nospam@ipal.net 2008-02-13, 5:25 pm |
| On Wed, 13 Feb 2008 03:50:25 -0500 Roy <ROYKEY@webtv.net> wrote:
| Another thing is customer perks & peeves., sometimes you have to give
| them what they want - even if it's overkill on a safety matter., if it's
| generally safe & sound I'll do it - But......
If it's overkill on safety, no reason not to give them what they want
if they are willing to pay for it and are able to pay. More work for
you means more income for you.
| *** without getting too technical - an oversized CB overestimates the
| current capabilities of a device or appliance and if it should fail the
| rated materials used in the device/appliance could suffer severe damage
| before tripping the breaker ***
There is never a reason to put in an overrated breaker. OTOH, I would
worry less about having a 40 amp breaker protecting 10 AWG wire going to
a dedicated load like a water heater, than I would protecting a multiple
outlet circuit. The former is rather unlikely to just have an overload
whereas the latter is is quite possible. I'd never put the 40 amp breaker
in when a 30 amp breaker is the required one, except for extremely short
times if no 30 amp breaker is available, until such time as I can get me
a correct 30 amp breaker. This would be in my own house; I am not a
licensed electrician.
| She said next time I'm in town, no work for me, just partying };) poor
| sweety had been dealing with some real duds., I had to align several
| electrical things that were carelessly installed without any asthetic
| considerations what-so-ever & even through-in a handymans touch here &
| there just cause I liked her....What?., she was cute & all alone on her
| own};) plus she payed me handsomely as well...
|
| Work per hour, no materials were needed = 50$
|
| The smile on her face & the satisfaction within = Priceless
I've wondered if electricians do their best work for their own house,
or their worst.
--
|---------------------------------------/----------------------------------|
| Phil Howard KA9WGN (ka9wgn.ham.org) / Do not send to the address below |
| first name lower case at ipal.net / spamtrap-2008-02-13-1542@ipal.net |
|------------------------------------/-------------------------------------|
| |
| phil-news-nospam@ipal.net 2008-02-13, 5:25 pm |
| On Wed, 13 Feb 2008 01:13:10 -0500 gfretwell@aol.com wrote:
| On 13 Feb 2008 05:27:45 GMT, phil-news-nospam@ipal.net wrote:
|
|>Not always. The term "AHJ" isn't just an individual; it includes all the
|>local rules and legislations that adopt and possibly modify the NEC.
|
|
| The reason the term is so ambiguous is because all "jursidictions" are
| not created equal. If you were talking about the city of Chicago or
| New York there will be a whole bureaucracy built up around the
| building process that probably includes the city legislature or at
| least a committee of that body. When you are talking about a small
| town the AHJ really might be one guy ... who also does most if not all
| of the inspections.
| When you get out in the boonies they might not even have residential
| inspections and permits.
As seems to be the case for my father's house. I don't know whether it
actually did get inspected or not. I've found 3 places where the required
outlet within 6 feet is not met. One of them is an 8 foot long wall with
no outlet at all. This is in a rural location. I suppose I should call
the county offices some day and see what their policy really is.
--
|---------------------------------------/----------------------------------|
| Phil Howard KA9WGN (ka9wgn.ham.org) / Do not send to the address below |
| first name lower case at ipal.net / spamtrap-2008-02-13-1549@ipal.net |
|------------------------------------/-------------------------------------|
| |
|
| From: phil-news-nospam@ipal.net
On Wed, 13 Feb 2008 01:13:10 -0500 gfretwell@aol.com wrote:
| On 13 Feb 2008 05:27:45 GMT, phil-news-nospam@ipal.net wrote:
|
Not always. The term "AHJ" isn't just an individual; it includes all the
local rules and legislations that adopt and possibly modify the NEC.
|
| The reason the term is so ambiguous is because all "jursidictions" are
| not created equal. If you were talking about the city of Chicago or |
New York there will be a whole bureaucracy built up around the |
building process that probably includes the city legislature or at |
least a committee of that body. When you are talking about a small |
town the AHJ really might be one guy ... who also does most if not all |
of the inspections.
| When you get out in the boonies they might not even have residential |
inspections and permits.
As seems to be the case for my father's house. I don't know whether it
actually did get inspected or not. I've found 3 places where the
required outlet within 6 feet is not met. One of them is an 8 foot long
wall with no outlet at all. This is in a rural location. I suppose I
should call the county offices some day and see what their policy really
is.
--
|---------------------------------------/-----
| Phil Howard KA9WGN (ka9wgn.ham.org) / Do not send to the address below
|
| first name lower case at ipal.net =A0 /
spamtrap-2008-02-13-1549@ipal.net |
|------------------------------------/--------
Yeap ., Tell us what "They" have to say on the matter [[see below]]]
IMHO - It pays to have your house updated or retrofitted for new
technologies regularly - as time passes, electrical needs & conveniences
grow in number - It will keep you in the winners circle with new housing
developments....some of these codes are best realized in new work., but
to have an old house up-to-code & fitted with all the new age
conveniences is a dandy on your wallet & Id }
I found out that in an undisclosed location } even GFCI's are not
being pushed by the AHJ's Only in " New Houses " I think it's a shame.,
but many responsable owners have incorporated them into their old
houses, other are " What? Why ? " ...
I've never reported them, butt I strongly I suggest them where ever they
have a overseen standing old work violation of this norm either outdoors
or anywhere near a water source....
Who'd Figure..........
Roy Q.T. ~ US/NCU ~ E.E. Technician
[have tools, will travel]
| |
| phil-news-nospam@ipal.net 2008-02-14, 1:25 pm |
| On Wed, 13 Feb 2008 19:43:49 -0500 Roy <ROYKEY@webtv.net> wrote:
| IMHO - It pays to have your house updated or retrofitted for new
| technologies regularly - as time passes, electrical needs & conveniences
| grow in number - It will keep you in the winners circle with new housing
| developments....some of these codes are best realized in new work., but
| to have an old house up-to-code & fitted with all the new age
| conveniences is a dandy on your wallet & Id }
The house was built new from late 1999 start to early 2000 finish. They
moved in May 2000.
| I found out that in an undisclosed location } even GFCI's are not
| being pushed by the AHJ's Only in " New Houses " I think it's a shame.,
| but many responsable owners have incorporated them into their old
| houses, other are " What? Why ? " ...
|
| I've never reported them, butt I strongly I suggest them where ever they
| have a overseen standing old work violation of this norm either outdoors
| or anywhere near a water source....
At least GFCIs are in place in his house where they are required. If they
had not been, I would have replaced them myself. I am considering having
AFCIs put in, since I live there now. I'm also looking to add a 240 volt
circuit into the room now used as the computer room ... if I can find a
suitable surge protector and UPS.
--
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| Phil Howard KA9WGN (ka9wgn.ham.org) / Do not send to the address below |
| first name lower case at ipal.net / spamtrap-2008-02-14-1206@ipal.net |
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