| Author |
service entrance question
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| David Axt 2005-06-17, 11:28 pm |
| The local hardware guy told me that NEC requires a certain space from the
service entrance coming into the panel and to the top of the buss bars (main
disconnect). What is the space required?
I am removing an old 60 amp panel with a new 200 amp panel. The problem is
that I only have about 8 inches of service entrance wires coming into the
panel board.
Thanks,
David
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| HorneTD 2005-06-17, 11:28 pm |
| David Axt wrote:
quote:
> The local hardware guy told me that NEC requires a certain space from the
> service entrance coming into the panel and to the top of the buss bars (main
> disconnect). What is the space required?
>
> I am removing an old 60 amp panel with a new 200 amp panel. The problem is
> that I only have about 8 inches of service entrance wires coming into the
> panel board.
>
> Thanks,
> David
There is no way that the service entry conductors that served your sixty
ampere panel are adequate to supply a two hundred ampere panel! You
need a heavy up of your service entry conductors. If you use your old
conductors to supply the new panel you will eventually exceed there
ampacity. When that happens they will fault out and the entire
available energy of the utility transformer will come to say good
morning. If those conductors pass through or near any combustible
finish or framing ignition is inevitable. Have your service entry
conductors replaced or you may burn down your home. Installing the new
panel without installing adequate service entry conductors is illegal
because it violates the electric code that is adopted as law in your
area. Because it is considered a legal absurdity to insure an unlawful
act doing so will void your fire insurance. The money you are saving is
not worth the risk. Draw a permit and do the job right.
--
Tom H
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| The Real Tom 2005-06-17, 11:28 pm |
| On Mon, 07 Mar 2005 15:39:39 GMT, HorneTD <hornetd@mindspring.com>
wrote:
quote:
><snip>
>not worth the risk. Draw a permit and do the job right.
AMEN!
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| Roy Q.T. 2005-06-17, 11:28 pm |
| I don't know the Code for this off hand, but if you only have 8 inches
of cable for the service panel, you shouldn't go into the panel, Instead
Install a small Trough & run the 8in. into It, then splice additional
wire to your panel properly with sufficient length to make all the
connections fit comfortable.
Roy
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| Roy Q.T. 2005-06-17, 11:28 pm |
| PS: make sure your Entrance cable is rated for 200Amps or that you
updated soon, if it's not., you do not want a brown out to
occur,sometimes the Utilities Company will make this run for you if you
ask.
RQT
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| David Axt 2005-06-17, 11:28 pm |
|
"HorneTD" <hornetd@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:%A_Wd.5629$603.5609@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net...
quote:
> David Axt wrote:
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the[vbcol=seagreen]
>
> There is no way that the service entry conductors that served your sixty
> ampere panel are adequate to supply a two hundred ampere panel! You
> need a heavy up of your service entry conductors. If you use your old
> conductors to supply the new panel you will eventually exceed there
> ampacity. When that happens they will fault out and the entire
> available energy of the utility transformer will come to say good
> morning. If those conductors pass through or near any combustible
> finish or framing ignition is inevitable. Have your service entry
> conductors replaced or you may burn down your home. Installing the new
> panel without installing adequate service entry conductors is illegal
> because it violates the electric code that is adopted as law in your
> area. Because it is considered a legal absurdity to insure an unlawful
> act doing so will void your fire insurance. The money you are saving is
> not worth the risk. Draw a permit and do the job right.
> --
> Tom H
Thanks for the suggestions! The aluminun service entrace cable is the same
thickness as the wire that runs to the transformer. I will check the size
and compare it to the Code minimum. I really don't want to run new service
entrance cable but may have to.
The old panel box was a weird Cutler Hamer thing that did not have a main
disconnect breaker. It is probably 100 to 200 amp since it was loaded with
breakers. There was obviously an overfill problem since many of the
breakers were doubles (I don't mean dual breakers, I mean two breakers on
one buss slot.)
The City of Seattle has a self issued electrical permit process that I has
been paid for and filed. I want to wire my house correctly and do not want
to the inspector to demand that I redo it. Thus the reason for my question.
Thanks again for the tips.
David
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| David Axt 2005-06-17, 11:28 pm |
|
"Roy Q.T." <ROYKEY@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:28737-422C9414-25@storefull-3254.bay.webtv.net...
quote:
> I don't know the Code for this off hand, but if you only have 8 inches
> of cable for the service panel, you shouldn't go into the panel, Instead
> Install a small Trough & run the 8in. into It, then splice additional
> wire to your panel properly with sufficient length to make all the
> connections fit comfortable.
>
> Roy
>
I don't believe it is Code to splice service entrance cable. I believe that
it has to be one continous wire from the meter to the buss bar.
David
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| Roy Q.T. 2005-06-17, 11:28 pm |
| Way to go David: The Permit is half the battle, after all you want to
upgrade your home in every aspect not just electrical... I am an
apartment dweller for now, but I know home insurance/finance can be very
picky with these upgrades when you don't have any paperwork to back-up
your work.
Pay no mind to the jealous ones :-)
Best Wishes;
Roy Q.T.
E.E.Technician
Bronx, NY USA
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| Roy Q.T. 2005-06-17, 11:28 pm |
| That is where he Trough comes in., you can homerun the cable from the
meter into the Trough, then wire down to the dist. panel through
conduit.
see ya'
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| HorneTD 2005-06-17, 11:28 pm |
| David Axt wrote:
quote:
> Thanks for the suggestions! The aluminun service entrace cable is the same
> thickness as the wire that runs to the transformer. I will check the size
> and compare it to the Code minimum. I really don't want to run new service
> entrance cable but may have to.
>
> The old panel box was a weird Cutler Hamer thing that did not have a main
> disconnect breaker. It is probably 100 to 200 amp since it was loaded with
> breakers. There was obviously an overfill problem since many of the
> breakers were doubles (I don't mean dual breakers, I mean two breakers on
> one buss slot.)
>
> The City of Seattle has a self issued electrical permit process that I has
> been paid for and filed. I want to wire my house correctly and do not want
> to the inspector to demand that I redo it. Thus the reason for my question.
>
> Thanks again for the tips.
>
> David
David
The thickness; or to be more precise the cross sectional area; of the
wires is only part of the picture. Other factors include the
temperature rating of the insulation or weather covering on the wires,
the environment through which they are run, and the material that the
conductors are made of. Aluminum Clad Steel Reinforced conductors have
a totally different ampacity than plain aluminum. I would hope it is
obvious that the ampacity of conductors in free air run as open wiring
on insulators or triplexed without an overall covering is higher than
the ampacity of the same conductors in raceway or cable. The
consequence of a fault in triplexed or open racked conductors is wires
down. The consequence of a fault in the cable or raceway on your home
is likely to be a fire.
Many inspectors are happy to answer questions. Call the permit bureau
and ask to speak to the inspector that will come out to your home. If
local policy allows they can be a tremendous help.
The rules that govern the wires that run from the eave of your home to
the transformer are in the National Electrical Safety Code (NESC).
Those rules allow a higher ampacity for conductors in free air than the
National Electric Code (NEC). The NEC rules govern the work you do on
or in the structure. The demarcation point between the two sets of
rules is the splices between the service drop and the service entry
conductors.
--
Tom H
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| David Axt 2005-06-17, 11:28 pm |
|
"HorneTD" <hornetd@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:3okXd.5634$CW2.4001@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
quote:
> David Axt wrote:
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>
> David
> The thickness; or to be more precise the cross sectional area; of the
> wires is only part of the picture. Other factors include the
> temperature rating of the insulation or weather covering on the wires,
> the environment through which they are run, and the material that the
> conductors are made of. Aluminum Clad Steel Reinforced conductors have
> a totally different ampacity than plain aluminum. I would hope it is
> obvious that the ampacity of conductors in free air run as open wiring
> on insulators or triplexed without an overall covering is higher than
> the ampacity of the same conductors in raceway or cable. The
> consequence of a fault in triplexed or open racked conductors is wires
> down. The consequence of a fault in the cable or raceway on your home
> is likely to be a fire.
>
> Many inspectors are happy to answer questions. Call the permit bureau
> and ask to speak to the inspector that will come out to your home. If
> local policy allows they can be a tremendous help.
>
> The rules that govern the wires that run from the eave of your home to
> the transformer are in the National Electrical Safety Code (NESC).
> Those rules allow a higher ampacity for conductors in free air than the
> National Electric Code (NEC). The NEC rules govern the work you do on
> or in the structure. The demarcation point between the two sets of
> rules is the splices between the service drop and the service entry
> conductors.
> --
> Tom H
The house's electrical service was updated in 1993 when they remodeled and
built an extensive addition. So it was NEC 1990 or 1993 compliant. I could
not find any markings on the SE cable without disturbing them. I will check
at the meter when it is pulled. I did manage to get some PLASTIC calipers
and roughly measure the diameter of the SE cable. It measured approximately
0.5 inch. From the Table 8 - Conductor Properties (NEC '02) I determined
the cable to be 4/0 which is okay for a 200 amp service.
David
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| Roy Q.T. 2005-06-17, 11:28 pm |
| It seems he was concerned about the cables & what conduit is used, from
the service drop to your meter and there on.
since you have 4/0 to your meter pan, all you may need to do is upgrade
from the meter to your Circuit Breaker Panel if you only have 8in. into
it, you may consider placing a Trough, then pipe down into your CBP or
if it seems to obtuse for it needing to be inside a visible living
space, you may want to make a full new run to you CBP, with NEC rated
200Amps Cable suitable for your Location., if that is what you intend
...It is my experience: your Local Supply House should carry the
particular type for your location that should meet all your conditions.
Roy Q.T.
I'm done here , hitting the books again, I need more income ;-) good
luck'
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| Adrienne Hendrickson 2005-06-17, 11:28 pm |
|
"David Axt" <daxt@bassettiarch.com> wrote in message
news:d0j0q4$9cn$1@nwnexus-news.nwnexus.com...
quote:
>
> "Roy Q.T." <ROYKEY@webtv.net> wrote in message
> news:28737-422C9414-25@storefull-3254.bay.webtv.net...
>
> I don't believe it is Code to splice service entrance cable. I believe
> that
> it has to be one continous wire from the meter to the buss bar.
>
> David
>
It depends upon which is the edition in force where you are. It was not
legal in the 1996 edition, but is allowed (with reerences to other sections)
in the 1999 edition.
Adrienne
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